The tinsel is hung, the tree is all decked out and everywhere you look there are beautiful lights aglow. It's Christmas and family and friends gather, each bearing well wishes and gifts. Some thoughtful soul brings you beautiful holiday plants all aglow with bloom and tells you they were just the most gorgeous things they had ever seen and just knew you would love them. You accept the wonderful gift and agree that they are very beautiful plants and in the back of your mind you wonder - "How on earth do I take care of these holiday plants? I just know that somehow I'll kill them!" Not to worry! Here are some of the most common holiday plants you'll find this holiday season and how to care for them. In fact, you'll amaze your benefactor at your gardening prowess because you'll have them blooming when they come to visit next year.
Poinsettia Plants 
General Say Christmas flower and the Poinsettia is probably the first thing that comes to mind and for good reason. The Poinsettia is the third largest flowering plant sold in the United States with approximately 65 million pots sold in 2006. Why "pots" instead of Poinsettia plants? Because, often a particular pot may contain 2 or more individual poinsettia plants in order to make the pot appear fuller. Poinsettias are grown in all 50 states but California tops the list with about 27 million pots sold in 2006. Poinsettia plants are native to southern Mexico through northern South America where it grows to a height of roughly 12 feet tall and is a woody, small tree of the Euphorbia family. The popularity of Poinsettia plants is the brightly colored bloom which is actual modified leaves called "Bracts", with the actual blooms being small yellow bead-like clusters in the center of the bracts. The range of color for Poinsettia's range from red, salmon, pink, yellow, cream, white and bi-colors. Red is still the primary color sold, but new colors and forms are being introduced every year. While Poinsettia plants have been used to decorate churches at Christmas in Mexico for years before it's discovery, it wasn't until 1828 that Dr. Roberts Poinsett (for whom it was named), the first US Ambassador to Mexico discovered the plant and shipped cuttings home to his greenhouse in the US. The plant was viewed as little more than a noxious weed of little interest for many years after its introduction to the US but slowly gained acceptance. In the early 1960's plant breeders were able to develop varieties that bloomed for more than a few days and the popularity of growing Poinsettias started to sky rocket, largely due to the efforts of Paul Ecke who was a plant breeder in California that had taken a peculiar interest in the plant. Today, roughly 80% of the worlds Poinsettia plants originate from the Paul Ecke Ranch in California where growing poinsettias is taken to an art form. Light Growing Poinsettias prefer bright light, but no direct sunlight while in bloom. When caring for poinsettias during the warmer months, Poinsettia plants will do best if moved outdoors where they will receive a few hours of morning sun but light shade the rest of the day. Temperature Poinsettia plants will tolerate hot temperatures outside provided they are given mid day and afternoon shade and ample water. Otherwise, Poinsettias have few demands other than during the resting and blooming periods, which are discussed in detail later. But in general, Poinsettias need to be kept cool during dormancy and a cooler environment during bloom will greatly improve bloom longevity of the Bracts and blooms. Water When growing poinsettias, the soil should never be allowed to dry out (except during dormancy) and if the leaves start to wilt, it is to late and the plant will start to drop its leaves. Water the plants when the soil is dry on the surface and never allow it to stand in water. In general, the Poinsettia prefers to remain moist, but not wet at all times except during dormancy. Remove the plant from foil wrappers or decorative pots to water the plant and discard standing water in the saucer. Fertilizer and Feeding When caring for Poinsettias, continue to feed your Poinsettia with an organic, slow release fertilizer during the growing season according to label directions. Discontinue feeding when dormancy begins. During the blooming period indoors, feed your Poinsettia plants with a 1/2 strength liquid houseplant fertilizer with every 3rd or 4th watering. Soil Poinsettias are not particular about their soil as a general rule. Use a high quality potting mix that drains well and is high in organic matter for growing poinsettias. Avoid potting mixes with added fertilizer, as these tend to have to much fertilizer, especially nitrogen that will interfere with blooming. I'm not a big fan of "polymer moisture crystals", especially for house plants in the winter. I have suspicions that they may keep most plants to wet in the winter time and especially when you are already trying to hold back water a little. If you choose to use these products, do so with caution and bear in mind that if the roots start to rot or the bract coloring starts to be effected because of them, it is possibly to late to correct the problem. Potting soils with polymer crystals are better suited for summer usage where the water demands are higher - not for indoor plants. Potting The standard rules of potting apply to Poinsettia plants as well. When you need to repot, move up only one pot size at a time. The exception being that if you root your own cuttings, you plant into a 3 inch pot to get it established and then you should pot up to the finish pot size, usually 6 or 8 inch diameter. After which, repot as normal. Blooming The Poinsettia is a plant that has become a staple in many homes, churches and businesses at Christmas each year and is relatively easy to grow and it will rebloom as long as certain strict requirements are met. Keep your Poinsettia plants away from drafts, heat registers and quick or extreme temperature fluctuations. Keep the plant in a temperature of around 72 degrees F during the day and 60 degrees F at night. To get your Poinsettia plants to rebloom, it requires short days (8-10 hours) and long nights (14-16 hours) in order for the bracts to start turning color. This process is not difficult, but it is extremely demanding in its discipline and do not attempt this process if you do not have the time or ability to stick to it religiously. Choose times that will work for you to cover and uncover the plant each day, say 5 P.M. and 9 A.M. Starting around the middle or later part of September at the time you chose move the plant into total darkness or cover the plant with a light-proof covering. Each morning at the time you chose, uncover the plant and place it back in bright light. When the leaves start turning color, discontinue the dark periods as the cycle has now started and keep the plant in a warm location in bright light as described above. When you start the process of dark periods, you must not allow any interruptions either in days or during the period of darkness. Any interruptions will normally interrupt the cycle and you will need to start over. But this just means your plant will flower later than you wished (Poinsettias normally bloom in January and February in the wild). The discipline of providing dark periods without interruptions or exceptions for a period of 2 to 2 1/2 months is the part of the process that causes many to give up on growing Poinsettias to rebloom at Christmas and for some writers to recommend not attempting it. But if you have the determination and willingness to adhere to this strict discipline for a short time, you will be richly rewarded with beautiful color each Christmas that was created (or rather - coaxed) by you. Dormancy Continue to allow the plant to grow normally for the next month or two (some time in early February) and then start withholding water gradually to cause the plant to go into dormancy as it would in the wild. At this point the leaves will start to drop. This will signal a time for rest. When this happens allow the plant to go dormant until it has lost its leaves then move it to a cool location (50 to 60 degrees F). While in storage, keep the plant dry but do not allow the roots to dry out completely. Allow the plant to remain dormant for 2 to 2 1/2 months (some time in early May) and then start increasing water and move the plant to a semi-shady location outdoors (morning and late afternoon sun only). At this point cut the limbs back to about 6 inches and repot the Poinsettia plants using a good quality potting soil. As new shoots develop, cut them back to 2 nodes (leaf joints) to promote a bushy plant until August and allow it to grow naturally. Propagation For those who are somewhat adventurous and are willing to invest in some simple basic equipment, Poinsettias can be successfully reproduced from cuttings without to much difficulty by vegetative cuttings and a "Cloning Box".
One last point to make here. There have been many rumors propagated as to the Poinsettia being poisonous. Thorough and rigorous testing by many agencies including the CDC and AMA have revealed that these reports simply are not true. Yes, there are potentially toxic substances within the plant, but they are at such low levels that even a small child could not consume enough to experience more than an upset stomach and the milky sap tastes so acrid that it is doubtful that they would consume enough to even experience an upset stomach. However, handling the leaves and particularly the milky sap of the plant may cause skin reactions and dermatitis in some sensitive individuals, especially children. So limit their handling of the plant and encourage them to wash their hands after handling the plant. It is possible that some pets may be effected by ingesting Poinsettia parts. However, no definitive research has been done in this area. So, it is probably best to keep your pets away from Poinsettia plants. Back To The Top
Christmas Cactus  "Twilight Tangerine" Orange Christmas Cactus | General I always thought of myself as fairly knowledgeable about many plants and caring for Christmas Cactus was no different. At least that was until I started researching support material for this article. This was when I realized how much more I needed to learn and just how much difference of opinion existed between the so-called "experts" when it came to growing Christmas Cactus. In fact, the difference on growing Christmas Cactus is so great that the opinions take almost "polar extremes" on many issues. In fact, many experts go so far as to not be able to agree with even the names of some species and subspecies or "cultivars" are often used in place of the true Latin name for the plant. Couple this with the fact that so much cross hybridization has occurred and the lines become very much |
blurred as to which species is which. The good news is that all of the various species of holiday cactus require pretty much the same care and the primary difference is in the time that the plant blooms naturally. All holiday cactus (Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter) are "epiphytes" from the mountainous regions of South America and are members of the cactus family. This means that they live in the trees of the South American rain forest areas in the crotches of trees and have the ability to store at least some water in their fleshy leaves. Holiday cacti sold from Thanksgiving through Christmas are cultivars of the Schlumbergera cactus family while the Easter cactus is of the species Hatiora gaertneri. Often, you will see these marketed as "Zygocactus", which is an old classification for the plants that many growers have been slow to change but many plant lovers still recognize. Holiday Cactus bloom in a color range from reds, pink, purple, orange, whites, creams and yellows and normally bloom during the winter months in the wild when temperatures are lower and the day length shortens. It is temperature and day length that normally triggers the process to bloom. This same trait will cause your cactus to bloom naturally, but not necessarily at the appropriate holiday. The easiest way for the lay gardener to tell the two genus apart is in the leaves and blooms. However, differentiating individual genus may prove much more difficult. Members of the Schlumbergera family (the Thanksgiving and Christmas Cactus) have spiny (not sharp) edges along the leaves, while members of the Hatiora gaertneri (Easter Cactus) family have smooth edges (see figures 1 and 2 below). | However, recent hybridizations have made this trait somewhat less pronounced in many species. In fact, it is often nearly impossible to tell the difference between the two based on the leaves. The other obvious way is in the blooms. Members of the Schlumbergera family have petals that curve upward and back, while members of the Hatiora gaertneri family have petals that open wide and flat, much like a true cactus bloom. Additionally, Easter Cactus bloom much later naturally than either Thanksgiving or Christmas Cactus, normally around the Easter season. Holiday cacti can be a very long lived plant with specimens of 20 - 30 years being not uncommon and can reach 8 to 10 feet across with proper care and not cut back regularly. | 
Figure #1 Christmas and Thanksgiving Cactus | 
Figure #2 Easter Cactus |
Light When growing Christmas Cactus, provide them with light shade to dappled sun in the summer (if moved outside) and bright light indoors. Plants will do well in an east window during the winter or with diffused light from a west or south window (as through sheers). Never allow your cactus to sit in direct sun during the warm months. The leaves can quickly burn. One sign of burned leaves is dark discoloration and soft, mushy, limp leaves. Sometimes, the leaves will appear wrinkled from a loss of internal moisture due to being overheated by the sun. Temperature |  Rare Yellow Christmas Cactus |
When caring for Christmas Cactus, remember that all holiday cacti are native to cooler, high altitude regions of South America. Therefore, they will not tolerate high temperatures for very long and may require some additional shading or cooling in very hot regions or times of the year. The ideal temperature for holiday cacti are: Active growing period - 70 - 80 degrees F during the day and 60 - 70 degrees F at night. Rest period - 50 - 60 degrees F during the day and 50 - 55 degrees F at night. Bloom set period - 60 - 65 degrees F during the day and 50 - 60 degrees F at night. Blooming period - 60 - 70 degrees F during the day and 55 - 60 degrees F at night. Rooting cuttings - 70 - 75 degrees F constant
Watering Christmas Cactus Contrary to their name, holiday cacti do not like to be dry. However, over watering Christmas Cactus is the leading cause of plant deaths since the roots tend to rot easily. It is better to err on the dry side than to much water when it comes to Christmas Cactus watering. One of the biggest keys to Christmas Cactus watering success is having a soil that drains well and not allowing the pot to sit in water. Also, do not give the plant small doses of water, but rather water until the soil is completely wet and then allow to drain thoroughly. A guide to watering Christmas Cactus is as follows: Active growth period - water when the surface feels dry on the surface. Rest period - allow the soil to dry just until it starts to pull away from the pot. But never allow your cactus to shrivel (it will recover from this when watered). Somewhat limp is ok but no more. Bloom Set period - restrict water, but only until the soil feels dry to about 1/4 inch down in the soil. The soil should be somewhat dryer than during the active growing period but withholding to much water will decrease the number of blooms and cause bloom bud drop. Blooming period - Watering should be somewhere between the active growing period and bloom set. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering. Rooting cuttings - keep the medium constantly moist to the touch but not wet. A mixture of perlite and sphagnum moss as the rooting media will help limit excessive water.
Fertilizer and Feeding 
Organic Plant Booster | Holiday cactus are not heavy feeders and have evolved to having a limited supply of nutrients. Remember, they are "Epiphytes" which means the plants rely on what comes to them naturally from the air and bird and animal droppings. However, this does not mean that they do not require periodic feeding. For best results when caring for Christmas Cactus, provide a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer with micronutrients at 1/4 strength every other watering during the growing season. Diluted compost and manure tea would also be good choices. Fish emulsion is an excellent choice, but the odor of some brands may be offensive if used indoors. Granular, slow-release fertilizers are not good choices as these need to be worked into the soil and holiday cactus do not like to have their roots disturbed, which normally reside very close to the surface of the soil. Do not feed your holiday cactus during the blooming or rest periods. |
When growing Christmas Cactus, proper soil acidity crucial to good plant growth. Holiday cacti need a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.2 to do well. and and should be checked often. If the pH is allowed to fall below 5.5 the plants will start to take up excessive amounts of iron and manganese which will lead to serious plant damage. The easiest way to check this is with a test meter or litmus paper. This is necessary because the tap water in many areas is alkaline and watering will leach the acid from the soil. The best ways to acidify the soil of your holiday cactus is by one of the following methods (in order of effectiveness): Nitric Acid - 1 to 2 drops per gallon of water depending on how much remediation is needed. Use this with extreme caution and keep well away from children in its original container. The diluted water will cause no harm. Cider Vinegar - 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as needed. Stale Tea - Water with stale tea (dilute if needed per your test results) with every second or third watering. Adding additional Potassium  will help to bring out stronger colors in the blooms and increase the overall number of blooms per segment.
Christmas Cactus Soil Christmas cactus soil that is high in organic matter but have excellent drainage are what these plants need. A good Christmas Cactus soil mix would be a high quality potting mix with equal parts of course leaf mold or course compost (sterilized), sand and 1/2 part perlite in equal proportions. If you tend to over water consider using a commercial potting soil designed for cactus and add and equal part of course leaf mold or course compost. As holiday cacti tend to have very large and heavy top growth in proportion to their roots, sand and aquarium gravel are the preferred materials to keep the Christmas Cactus soil loose. Repotting Christmas Cactus 
White Christmas Cactus | Holiday Cacti do not care to be disturbed and need infrequent repotting. Many very fine specimens go without repotting for years and the plants bloom best if left somewhat pot bound. Each year, when you bring your plants out of their rest period and when you are ready to move outdoors, gently knock the plant out of its pot and check the root ball. Repotting Christmas Cactus or any holiday cactus is needed only when the roots start to become matted. When repotting Christmas Cactus, choose a pot that is roughly 2 inches larger than it was originally growing and make sure to add proper drainage to the bottom of the pot. Make sure to detangle the roots and loosen them before repotting. Keep the plant in a shady area for 1 to 2 weeks or until new growth starts. As holiday cactus must |
have good drainage, clay pots are an excellent choice for holiday cacti. If you choose to use plastic or glazed pots, consider adding some additional sand or perlite to your mix Blooming All holiday cacti bloom when the nights grow longer and night temperatures grow cooler in nature. But not all of the cultivars bloom at the time you may wish them to. Many growers will rely on different species in order to provide them with blooms at the time they wish, while others just allow their plants to flower naturally (as they will, given proper temperatures) at the time the plant chooses. These bloom times (for Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti) will range anywhere from early November through January, depending on the cultivar. The plants you see so beautifully displayed in the stores are normally "forced" into blooming at a particular time, as are Poinsettias. The odds are that the plants you see blooming in your store at the end of November and through December are more than likely cultivars that are bred to bloom near that time anyway and the forcing is more to guarantee bloom at a particular time than to force it to bloom at an unusual time for the plant. But this can not be guaranteed. I personally prefer to start giving them cool (50 to 55 degrees if possible) temperatures at night and warmer days (60 - 70 degrees) for 2 to 3 weeks stating the end of September and then let them bloom when they want to naturally. However, if you are the adventurous sort and wish to try your hand at forcing them to bloom at Christmas (or possible Thanksgiving) here are the basics of forcing your holiday cacti to bloom. Bear in mind that this is based on not knowing the cultivar and its normal blooming pattern so we are assuming that they are a cultivar that blooms around December or January naturally. Beginning around the first of September, bring your plants indoors and place them under artificial grow lights for 14-15 hours per day and keep them watered as you would outdoors (remember the amount of water needed indoors will be less). Also keep the plants at around 70 - 80 degrees F. This will simulate the long days of summer and keep the plants actively growing. Around the last week of September or the first week of October, reduce the hours of bright daylight to 8-9 hours and reduce the watering to allow the top 1/4 to 1/3 inch of soil to dry between watering. Reduce the daytime temperature to 60 to 65 degrees F. Each night place the plants in a totally dark location (as with Poinsettias) and at a temperature of 50 to 55 degrees F for 15-16 hours. The dark period should not be interrupted, however, this is not quite as critical as with Poinsettias. Set a schedule for this and keep it constant as with your Poinsettias for 2 to 3 weeks (I like to do Poinsettias and Holiday cactus together at the same time when I do this for convenience). At the end of this period the plants should have started to set blooms (these will first appear as small round buttons on the ends of the segments). When this occurs, discontinue the cool/dark period and place in a location of 65 to 70 degrees F daytime temperature and 60 to 65 degrees F at night in bright light (such as an east window) and provide additional water, but still somewhat dryer than during the growing season. The first blooms should open approximately 4 weeks afterward (depending on cultivar). To hold back the blooming period by a week or two, keep them in the cool and long night period another week or two. Be aware that to much cool time may bring out red tones in some white varieties.
Some things to avoid during bloom: Keep your blooming holiday cacti away from drafts, heat vents etc. Keep out of direct sun (except 1 or 2 hours of early morning sun from an east window). Temperatures in excess of 70 degrees F may cause bloom drop. Over watering - keep somewhat dryer than normal. Don't feed your plants during bloom. Rough handling and jostling of the plant may cause bloom drop (especially Easter cactus). If you move your plants to a cool room at night (recommended), try keeping them on a roll around cart (like a tea cart) to display them and to avoid handling the plant any more than necessary.
Propagating Christmas Cactus Holiday cacti are among the easiest plants to propagate and require little in the way of special requirements. The normal time for propagating Christmas Cactus is between December to March, just before the plants a placed into a rest period. But they can be safely and successfully propagated any time (it's a great way to save a broken branch). The method for propagating Christmas Cactus is to simply twist (do not cut) off single mature sections from the growing tips (normally only the first 1 or 2 mature sections are used, however try rooting all that break off). Stick the base end into a mixture of sand and peat moss and keep the cuttings damp continuously. Place your cuttings in a shady location away from any sunlight for approximately 3 - 4 weeks. This is really all that is | 
Easter Cactus |
needed. However, I have found the following method of propagating Christmas Cactus works better for me and gives me a better yield. Fill a pot of about 6 to 8 inches diameter with a mixture of equal parts of peat moss, sand and perlite. In this I stick 8 - 10, single segment cuttings 1/2 way into the mix. I then make a hoop (like a 3-legged halo) out of metal coat hangers and push this into the top of the pot so that the ring is about 3 - 4 inches above the cuttings. I then mist all of this very well to settle the mix around the cuttings and slide all of this into a clear plastic bag to which I have punched 12 - 15 holes around the top with a paper punch (for ventilation) and tie it shut. I then place this rooting container in bright light or an artificial light garden, on a heat mat at 70 to 75 degrees F until new growth begins. If you plan on starting more plants than this, try using those seed starting trays with the clear plastic domes and the "cell packs" that go in them for ease of handling later. Once new growth begins, the cuttings should be rooted and can be planted into individual 3 inch pots. Keep the plants out of bright light for a week or so and keep them at about 65 to 70 degrees if possible. The plants will develop a new segment about once every 6 weeks under ideal conditions. To promote multiple shoots, twist off the new segments when they reach approximately 1/2" long. Thumbnail schedule for caring for Christmas Cactus: The schedule of the ideal life of a Christmas Cactus January - Flowering. Water normally. Temperature no less than 55 degrees F. February to March - Resting (55 degrees, infrequent watering). April to May - Water thoroughly when potting mix begins to dry out. Place in bright light. June to August - Place outdoors in a shady spot. September to October - Plant prepares to flower. Reduce length daylight hours. Keep on the dry side and cool (55 to 60 degrees F) until flower buds form. Then increase water and temperature. November to December - Flowering. Water normally. Temperature no less than 55 degrees F.
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Amaryllis Plants  | General Amaryllis plants have been around since their discovery around 1828 by Dr. Uduard Frederich Poepping on a Chilean mountain during a plant hunting expedition. While they have shown popularity as a garden plant and an easily forced garden lily, it hasn't been until recent years that Amaryllis plants have started to become extremely popular during the holiday season. The popularity of the Amaryllis plant is probably due to their ease of growing and adaptability to forcing in the winter and ability to survive to bloom another year. |
It has been said "Growing Amaryllis plants is so easy that anyone who can not grow them should take up bowling". I don't know if I'm willing to go that far, but I will say that they are among the easiest of plants to grow, especially of the forcing Amaryllis bulbs. By their nature Amaryllis have a tendency to want to grow and flower even without being planted. Remember, the Amaryllis build is a complete plant system with everything it needs to grow stored within the bulb already. We plant it in soil for our convenience, to bring out the best that the bulb has to offer and to insure its continued existence. Light During the majority of their growing season Amaryllis plants require a sunny window during the winter months, except while they are blooming. During their blooming period, keep the Amaryllis plant in bright light, but no direct sun in order to prolong the blooms. During the warmer time of the year after the last frost, move them outside to a location where they receive midday shade. Temperature When growing Amaryllis plants during the blooming period, keeping your Amaryllis bulb in a location free of drafts and 65 to 70 degrees F will greatly prolong the flower. Temperatures above 75 degrees F will cause the flowers to fade quickly, while moving the plant to a cool room at 55-60 degrees F at night will greatly increase the length of bloom. After the Amaryllis plant is through flowering, keep it at normal room temperatures of 70-75 degrees F until the weather warms in the spring and move it outdoors. In extremely hot locations, shade will be required during midday and afternoon heat. During the dormant resting period, the Amaryllis bulb will need to be kept cool in a 50-55 degree F location that is away from bright light. Water Amaryllis plants need to stay moist but over watering will cause the Amaryllis bulb to rot. Water your Amaryllis plant whenever the surface of the soil starts to dry. Over watering is the number one cause of failure with Amaryllis plants. When you move the Amaryllis plants outdoors, mulch the pots well and water frequently if you leave them potted. If you unpot the bulbs and plant them directly in the garden you can mulch them heavily and water with the rest of your garden, giving them at least an inch of water per week. Fertilizer and Feeding Amaryllis plants do not require feeding during the blooming period and in some cases extra fertilizer can cause inferior or reduced bloom. The Amaryllis bulb contains all of the nutrients the plant needs to bloom well. After the plant quits blooming, start feeding the Amaryllis plant with a good quality bulb food according to the product instructions. A balanced, general purpose organic slow release fertilizer will also work in a pinch sprinkled on the soil and lightly worked into the surface. Once outside, feed the growing Amaryllis bulbs lightly every month until the dormant season. Soil | 
Bulb's Alive. 100% organic bulb food |
When growing Amaryllis plants, they are not fussy about soil, but they do require good drainage. Any high quality potting soil will work well for growing Amaryllis plants. Avoid potting soils with additional fertilizers, moisture crystals, etc. These are not needed and in some cases, may harm your Amaryllis bulb. Also avoid those bargain potting soils that many "box stores" sell. Stick with a high quality potting soil that stays loose and does not compact. Potting Growing Amaryllis plants perform best if kept somewhat pot bound. When choosing a pot, an Azalea or bulb pot works best and you should choose a pot that is roughly no more than 2 inches larger than the Amaryllis bulb diameter with drainage holes in the bottom. Place drainage material in the bottom of the pot and then potting soil so that when the bulb is planted, approximately 1/2 of the bulb is above the soil. Your finished pot should have not more than 1-1 1/2 inch of room all around the bulb, 1/2 of the bulb exposed and 1/2-1 inch of room for watering. After potting your Amaryllis bulb, water thoroughly and place in a warm sunny location until the Amaryllis plant starts to bloom and then move it to a location with bright light, but no direct sun. Blooming The normal blooming period for Amaryllis plants is in May and June in the wild or where they are able to be planted outdoors the year round. The majority of the forcing Amaryllis you find in stores right now and all of the ones ordered from on-line sources are ready to start growing once potted and will provide you with blooms in 4 - 8 weeks after they start growing. After the Amaryllis plants have finished blooming, cut the faded flowers and flower stalk from the plant (be careful not to damage the bulb) but leave the leaves intact and place in a sunny spot to continue to grow and build strength for next years bloom. When the Amaryllis bulb is brought out of dormancy next fall and repotted, place the pot in a bright, cool (60 - 65 degree F) location until new growth begins and then move the pot to a warm sunny window until the plant begins to bloom and then move the Amaryllis plant to a spot with bright light and if possible keep at 65 to 70 degrees F to prolong the bloom. Moving the pot to a cool room (55 to 60 degrees F) will prolong the blooms. Dormancy Like any bulb, the Amaryllis bulb needs a period of rest to prepare to bloom again next year. Your Amaryllis bulb should be growing outside during the warmer months and the foliage will normally die back on its own by July or early August, at which time the bulb is ready to be brought in to take a long nap. Even if the foliage is not completely dead, by the end of July or early August bring the Amaryllis bulb in to give it a rest anyway. Withhold water from the bulb, letting it dry completely and place it in a cool, dark location (50 - 55 degrees F) for 8 - 10 weeks. Leave any foliage still attached to remain on the plant until it is dry, when it can be gently pulled from the bulb. Should any foliage remain at the end of dormancy that is not completely dry, gently cut this from the Amaryllis bulb being careful not to damage the bulb. At the end of the 8 - 10 week resting period or when you start to see new growth, gently repot the Amaryllis bulb in fresh potting mix, resume watering and move to a cool area and bright light until new growth begins. Then move the Amaryllis plant to a sunny window and warmer temperatures until it starts to bloom. Propagation In its normal state, Amaryllis plants will produce small bulblets around the main bulb like any other bulb if given proper care. These can be removed and potted up separately for new plants. However, bear in mind that the care of these new bulbs will be the same as the larger parent bulb and it will take from 2 - 3 years to produce a bulb of flowering size but it is cheaper than buying new bulbs and they do make great gifts for just a little time on your part. If you feel daring and would like to try creating your own unique Amaryllis and have the patience to wait 3 - 5 years to see the results, drop me a line and I'll be glad to send you the details. It's really easy to do, but like I say it takes several years to see the results of your creation. Kind of like kids. You never quite know how they will turn out until they're grown. Back To The Top
Rosemary Herb  A potted Rosemary plant. | General In recent years Rosemary plants have started becoming a popular holiday plant in many parts of the country. With its wonderful aroma and the upright nature of many cultivars, coupled by their ability to be pruned and shaped into a Christmas tree shape it's no wonder. The Rosemary plant, for many people, conjures up many pleasant memories with its stimulating, yet relaxing scent. Most of these upright Rosemary bush forms can be decorated much as a conventional tree but on a much smaller scale. Actually, after thinking about it, here is a holiday tree that fills your home with the pleasant scent of Rosemary, can delight your eye with the glittering sights of Christmas, flavors your dinner and relieves a great many ailments. Some upright forms of Rosemary bush can reach up to 6 feet tall with time. Therefore, I would have to say Rosemary is indeed the perfect Christmas tree! |
The Rosemary plant is an amazingly easy plant of the mint family to grow and will tolerate just about everything except very cold temperatures and wet feet. A Rosemary bush has the ability to be shaped and trained into artistic shapes like topiaries and with more and more hybridizations occurring, the amazing Rosemary plant is steadily moving northward as an important garden element that can remain in your garden outside with care. Varieties or Rosemary plants are being offered already that will survive winters as far north as zone 6 and with some trickery on your part and the use of "microclimates", you can even squeeze in a zone 5 occasionally for growing Rosemary plants. However, Rosemary herb is such a delightful plant, I can't see being without a pot or two indoors in the winter and yes, you'll see it sporting its Christmas colors around our house at Christmas time. Light Rosemary herb is a plant of the hot, dry climates of the Mediterranean region and enjoys full sunshine for at least 6 - 8 hours per day. However, if you live in an extremely hot area of North America, Rosemary plants will benefit from afternoon shade. When growing Rosemary indoors, place the plant in a sunny south window or provide supplemental lighting with plant lights. Temperature Rosemary herb is tolerant of high temperatures, however, it will not tolerate extreme cold. Cultivars of Rosemary plants have been developed that will take temperatures down to 10 degrees F and at least one boasts of being able to withstand colder, but if you expect temperatures to regularly dip into the single digits, it is nest to bring Rosemary plants indoors. As a general rule, it is best to bring all Rosemary plants indoors for the winters if you live in zone 5 or lower and most will not survive colder than zone 7 or 8 outdoors. Rosemary plants should have their roots covered with a quick draining mulch in all but the most northerly areas in order to keep the roots cool through the summer months. I generally would recommend mulching Rosemary plants with "dulled straw" (see note below), pine straw, bark mulch or even white sand whenever the soil reaches 75 degrees F in the summer (another handy use of a soil thermometer) Water Rosemary herb is a plant that tolerates drought, but will do best if watered thoroughly whenever the soil becomes dry 1/2-1 inch down in the soil. A moisture probe is a handy, simple and useful tool to keep around for this task. Over watering is the biggest downfall of Rosemary and to much water will cause the roots to rot quickly. If Rosemary is grown outside during wet weather, it is best to either keep it in a well drained clay pot or mound it up in the garden so it is elevated somewhat and provide good drainage. Water usage will be much less during the winter months so use care when watering during the winter or cloudy days. | 
Three-Way Soil Meter (Moisture, pH, Light) |
Fertilizer and Feeding  The foliage of a Rosemary herb plant is stiff and highly pungent. | The Rosemary plant is a plant of meager fertilizer needs but does require some supplemental nutrients for optimal growth. When growing Rosemary, if you will top dress with compost every month or six weeks if planted outdoors, this is usually all the supplemental food needed. If you growing Rosemary in a container, you can add additional slow release organic fertilizer about once per month at 1/2 strength or if your garden soil is particularly sandy or poor. Rosemary plants will grow best in a slightly alkaline soil of 8.5- 7.5 pH so test your soil regularly and add lime as needed. Avoid using processed lime as this can burn plants. Wood ashes may also be used in small quantities and worked into the soil, but keep them out away from the Rosemary plant as these too can burn plants. |
A word on lime is in order here and applies to all gardening efforts. Garden lime takes time to be effective and works slowly, normally about 3 months. Garden lime is generally a bi-product of mining limestone for gravel and is usually available as a finely crushed rock "dust" and can normally be found in several different "grades" of fineness and even in a liquid form. Generally, the finer the dust, the quicker it starts acting. Savvy gardeners will often mix both fine and coarse lime dust in order to get a quicker reaction and yet have the finished pH level occur over a longer period of time. In this way, you get fairly quick results with a long term benefit without the risk of overdoing it. Soil Rosemary herb is not picky about soil, but as stated before, it does require excellent drainage. Therefore it is always best to incorporate compost and sand deeply into the soil before you plant Rosemary plants outside. A Rosemary bush has deep roots and thus you should make every effort to improve your soil as deeply as possible. A Rosemary bush does no like to be disturbed once established, so if you are planting it in a permanent spot outside, try to take into consideration the amount of room the plant roots will need once the Rosemary plant is mature. Successful gardeners who regularly grow Rosemary plants outside do not consider 2 feet to be to deep to improve the soil and therefore will often plan on improving the soil a foot or two and then build a 1 or 2 foot tall raised bed around this area to be filled with good draining soil. This bed then becomes a dedicated herb bed and architectural design element built around the central Rosemary herb. I have not found this to be necessary unless I have a drainage problem or extremely heavy soil. In this case it is of real advantage. However, I do like the idea of raised beds for herb gardens in general because a great many of the herbs commonly used are natives of dryer climates and must have good drainage and warmer soils. Additionally, it is delightful to turn what would otherwise be a purely utilitarian element into a decorative, yet functional one as well because a herb bed can be highly decorative as well as functional. Potting The Rosemary plant, as stated earlier does not like to have its root disturbed any more than possible. Therefore it is best to choose pots that will allow the plant to grow for at least a year and preferably two without the need for repotting. When I repot Rosemary plants, I generally like to upsize 2 inches all the way around the root ball rather than the traditional 1 inch. What does this mean? In traditional repotting methodology you normally go up one pot size, but with plants like Rosemary herb, I prefer to go up 2 pot sizes and repot less frequently. With proper care, there will come a time when the pot will grow too large to handle with many Rosemary plant species, particularly the upright Rosemary bush cultivars. When this happens you will need to either Root cuttings of the plant and start over or "root-prune" to bring it back into bounds. To root-prune the Rosemary plant, remove it from its pot (in an area where you have a lot of room to work and preferably on a tarp) and using a saw or machete (an old hand saw works really well, sawing from top to bottom), cut off approximately 2 inches of the outside of the root ball all the way around (place this in your compost bin) and repot it back in the same pot with good quality potting mix that drains well. As with all plants that you root prune, you must bring the top growth back into scale with the roots. Therefore selectively prune off approximately 1/3 of the top growth. Do not sheer it like a hedge. Place the plant in a semi-shady location (a little morning sun only) and water sparingly until new growth begins then gradually move it back into full sun and resume regular watering. Anytime when pruning Rosemary, remember to save those trimmings to dry for use later. Because growing Rosemary plants like good drainage, porous clay pots work best and avoid dark-colored pots as these absorb to much heat from the summer sun. Blooming | The Rosemary plant normally blooms in late spring to early summer (May and June) with tiny flowers in shades of whites, pinks and blues. The blooms are born on new wood from the previous year, therefore pruning Rosemary is best done right after flowering. Both the the leaves and flowers are edible and while Rosemary herb is not particularly grown for its flowers, many cultivars bloom so heavily that they are quite showy in bloom and will sometimes look like a cloud of color from a distance. |  A Rosemary bush in full bloom. |
Dormancy Rosemary herb does not have a dormant period, however it does grow more slowly in the winter months when the light levels are lower unless supplemental lighting is used. Propagation Rosemary plants are propagated either by sowing seed or by rooting cuttings (slips). Rosmarinus officinalis is the species normally always offered as seed and while this is a great Rosemary herb, if you wish to have other cultivars, you will be forced to find these from nurseries or order on-line as rooted cuttings. Rosemary herb is generally not a good herb to propagate from seed because the germination rates are very low (generally about 15%) and it has a bad tendency to produce a lot of variables. Many of these "rogue" rosemary plants will be totally useless for use as culinary, fragrance, decorative or medicinal plants. It also requires warm soil (75 - 80 degrees F) and very long germination periods of up to 3 months. However, with that all said, it can be fun to try sowing a packet of seed to see what you come up with. You may find a new cultivar produced that has qualities that you like very much. If you want the best success at producing new plants, your best bet is to root cuttings. And if you want copies of a particular favorite, then you have no choice but to start cuttings. This process is called cloning or vegetative propagation in the plant industry by the way. To root your own cuttings, it is best to take woody tip cuttings in late winter or early spring (March and April) that are approximately 3-6 inches long. Strip the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and then insert this into a mixture of equal parts perlite and peat moss (preferably screened). I prefer to use cell packs in a tray with a clear dome lid and one cutting per cell because the cuttings will need potted at variable times. Mist the cuttings in well to settle the media and cover with a clear covering to hold in the humidity. The containers should be kept in a location with bright light but little direct sun and warm (75 - 80 degrees F) until rooted or new growth begins. Open the container and mist the cuttings occasionally to keep moist. From experience, rooting will take from 4 - 12 weeks and rooting will not occur all at the same time. That is why I prefer the cell packs so that I can remove the individual Rosemary plant cuttings as they are ready to be potted. At this time the cuttings are ready to be potted into individual 3 inch pots. Using a thermostatically controlled heat mat will speed up the rooting process and make the process more uniform. An artificial light garden is an excellent place to root your cuttings if you do not have a hotbed or greenhouse and if equipped with heat mats, will give you full control of the process. Harvesting Rosemary Rosemary herb is highly prized as a culinary ingredient in many dishes. Rosemary herb is best used fresh, but can easily be dried for use later. Sprigs of Rosemary herb can be cut at any time it is needed and even the flowers are edible, but the best flavor comes when the Rosemary is used before it sets flower. The Rosemary flowers do not have the intense Rosemary flavor of the leaves, but are great in salads and deserts for their mild flavor and color. Harvesting Rosemary for drying is normally done in the spring before the plants start to bloom and in the morning, just after the dew has dried (if grown outside). When harvesting Rosemary herb, remember that it is the essential oils of the plant that give the herb its flavor and aroma. These oils are easily lost in heat. So the more you can limit heat, the more intense the flavor of your finished product. When harvesting Rosemary for drying, cut springs from the tips of branches that are 3-6 inches long and free of insect damage and disease. Bundle the sprigs together into bundles of about 1/2-1 inch in diameter and tie these together at the cut end with a rubber-band. The rubber band keeps the bundles tight as the stems shrink during the drying process. Hang each of these bundles of Rosemary herb upside down in a cool, dark, dry location with plenty of air circulation. Drying will require several days, after which you should check for dryness regularly. When thoroughly dry, the leaves will crumble off of the stems. If the leaves do not crumble off of the stems easily, let them hang for another day or two and check again. The leaves must be completely dry or the herb will not keep and mold may form. When thoroughly dry, strip the leaves from the stems and store in an air-tight container in a cool, dark, dry location until you are ready to use them. Check your stored herb periodically for the development of mold. If that occurs, either the herb was not dry enough when it was stored, or moisture was allowed into the storage container. In either case, the herb must be thrown out. One alternative to air-drying is to use a commercially produced dryer. These work by circulating warm air around the herbs being dried and hastens the drying process to limit the amount of volatile essential oils that are lost. Follow the manufacturers recommendations for the particular herb you are drying. Another option gaining popularity is to use your microwave to dry the herbs. Place a single layer of clean, dry herbs between two pieces of paper towel. Place these into your microwave set on high and microwave for several seconds. If not completely dry, return them to the microwave and process for a few more seconds. Continue this process until the Rosemary herb is completely dry. Depending on your oven and a little practice, it should only take a couple of minutes to dry a batch of Rosemary herb. A couple of tips for harvesting Rosemary herb: For best flavor, water the plants thoroughly a day or two ahead of when you want to harvest. Two or three days before you wish to harvest Rosemary, spray the plants thoroughly with insecticidal soap to remove any critters that may be present. The night before you plan to harvest Rosemary, give the Rosemary plants a thorough rinse to remove the insecticidal soap. Disinfect your harvesting clippers prior to harvesting Rosemary with a mixture of 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water to prevent spreading any disease. This should already be common practice any time you do any pruning in your garden.
Notes: "Dulled Straw" - Straw (wheat or oat) that has been left outdoors long enough to weather to the point that it no longer has any shiny or reflective qualities. Straw that is shiny is referred to as "bright straw" and will reflect enough sunlight up onto the underneath surfaces of many plants to burn the leaves. Back To The Top
Mistletoe Plants About Christmas Mistletoe What is Mistletoe? The Mistletoe plant is a parasitic plant that grows on trees, particularly hardwood trees and is composed of many different subspecies. The primary species are Viscum album (European Mistletoe, Santalaceae; the only species native in Great Britain and much of Europe); subsequently it was extended to other related species, including Phoradendron serotinum (the Eastern Mistletoe of eastern North America, also Santalaceae). Parasitic plants are plants that rely on other plants for their food and therefore their existence. Mistletoe is found in 2/3 of the continental US states, parts of Canada, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands and much of Europe into the Orient. The Mistletoe plants that are found in North America bear white or red berries, which are enjoyed and eaten by many birds which spread their seeds. This accounts for the Mistletoe plants wide range. Mistletoe sends its tendrils (roots) deep into the bark of the tree to feed off of its sap and while it does not usually kill its host, it can cause stunting and deformed limbs. Because of the invasive and damaging nature of Mistletoe plants, sale, transport and cultivation is strictly prohibited or controlled in many states and considered a noxious weed. Growing Mistletoe is not recommended and difficult to control once it has started growing in a tree. Once started, Mistletoe plants are spread quickly by birds who eat the berries. Because growing Mistletoe is normally found high up in trees and feeds off of the sap of the host tree, spraying and other conventional methods of control are not practical, or are impossible. In many cases, in order to eradicate Mistletoe plants completely, either the tree must be climbed or the tree cut down in order to reach the Mistletoe plants. Mistletoe caution The berries of Mistletoe contain viscotoxins, if eaten, will cause extreme stomach and intestinal pain, discomfort and possibly death for the victim. In recent years, some companies have started marketing a modified Mistletoe, where they remove the poisonous berries and replace them with safe plastic ones. If you choose to bring Christmas Mistletoe plants indoors to be a part of your holiday celebration this year or just need a little kiss from an unsuspecting lady, use caution to keep this little matchmaker far away from children. The tradition of Mistletoe Traditions and history of Mistletoe go back to Roman times. The Mistletoe plant has been at the center of customs, traditions and myth since antiquity. In more modern (Victorian) times hanging Christmas mistletoe over a doorway during the Christmas holiday is a tradition that most Americans and a lot of people around the world have grown up with. The correct Christmas Mistletoe etiquette is for the man to remove one berry when he kisses a woman. When all the berries are gone, there is no more kissing underneath that plant. Kissing under the mistletoe plant has proper etiquette rules that come from ancient times. The gentleman can kiss the lady on the cheek once for each white berry he picks off the Christmas Mistletoe. When the berries are gone, no more kissing. A successful kiss results in marriage. If a girl refuses to be kissed, she will become an old maid. Enjoy the holidays for all you're worth and enjoy those wonderful sugarplum holiday plants! the "Hillbilly Gardener" Back To The Top
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