The following "reminder list" is based on a Zone 6a growing region, which is centrally located for the North American growing areas. For areas north of Zone 6a add roughly one week per zone for any times given. For areas south, subtract roughly one week per zone. Don't know your hardiness zone? Find it quick on our "Plant Hardiness Zone Map".
 

February is the "Dead Zone" month for many people. It is far enough away from the holidays for them to a fading memory, new catalogs in the mail are dwindling and the long, cold nights of winter seem to last forever. The weather seems to go to extremes of cold, snow and ice and you are weary from shoveling snow. The heating bills are soaring and you wonder if you will ever be warm again. It is winters version of the dark before the dawn. But not so much so for ardent gardeners.

February brings a time for new life as seeds of slow-growing plants are lovingly planted in flats, last minute seed orders are placed, garden plans finalized and spring-flowering bulbs continue to brighten your window sill. The days start to grow longer and the birds have become more numerous to your feeders as more and more feathered friends discover your offerings and open water, warmed by your birdbath heater. Last minute preparations are made to tools, supplies and equipment in preparation for the start of gardening activities next month. No, February need not be quite so dark and gloomy for a gardener.
 

Around The Garden

• If possible, turn the compost pile and wet down if needed. Compost will continue to cook if properly prepared but at a much slower rate. Turning will introduce oxygen and result in additional heating. Wrapping the pile with black plastic or a tarp will help hold in heat.
• Start applying soil insect controls when the weather starts warming the end of this month.

• When the weather warms, remove any remaining plant debris, stakes and trellis left over from last year.

• The vegetable garden should get its first tilling (if weather permits) to allow the weather to aid you in breaking up the dirt clods. Exposed weeds and seeds hopefully will perish along with insects.

• Daylilies, bleeding hearts, and plantain lilies can be planted this month if the ground is not frozen.

• Rhubarb, horseradish, asparagus and artichokes can be planted this month if the ground is not frozen.

• Most perennials may be divided and moved up until they begin to show new growth.
• Strawberries can be planted as soon as they become available (mulch well).
• Cane fruits (raspberries and blackberries), with the exception of everbearers should have all the canes which produced fruit last year removed.
• Kiwis and grapes must be pruned before the sap starts to rise (leaf bud swell) to prevent sap 'bleeding'.
• If you grow currants, remove all trunks which are over 3 years old.

Around The Landscape

• Spread crabgrass pre-emergent by the middle to latter part of February.

• Continue feeding the birds and keep those waterer's filled with clean water. This is a critical time for the birds. Make sure bird bath heaters are working.
• Repair trellises and garden structures when the weather warms before spring.
• Start applying soil insect controls when the weather starts warming toward the end of this month.
• Clean out nest boxes and disinfect with a 10% bleach solution now before the early arrivers start returning in late February and March.

• When weather is warm do yard clean-up chores now so that you are not trying to do it when the garden chores start later.

• Start applying dormant oil spray to fruit trees and other shrubs prone to borer attack.

• Trees and shrubs can still be transplanted where the ground is not frozen provided the buds have not started to swell yet.

• Start feeding trees and shrubs the end of this month by punching a series of 1 to 2 inch diameter holes, 12 to 18 inches deep, about every 2 feet around the drip line of the tree or shrub and placing fertilizer in these holes and water well. For smaller shrubs, a mulch of composted manure works very well. Late February is the time to fertilize shrubs and evergreens. Use an acid type rhododendron fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use dry type fertilizers, be sure to water it in thoroughly.

• Take a stroll around the yard and prune any winter damage to your trees and shrubs.

• Summer-flowering shrubs can be pruned to shape the plants or open the centers for sunlight and air movement. Remember though that the blooms have already been set and any pruning will reduce the number of blooms. Spring-flowering shrubs such as Forsythia, quince, spirea should not be pruned until after they bloom in the spring but dead decaying or damaged limbs are ok.

• Deciduous vines such as honeysuckle should be pruned and shaped.

• Climbing roses should be thinned out to get rid of last years tangled growth.

• Plants which may have been pushed out of the ground by frost heave should be pressed firmly back into place.

• If it snows, gently shake snow off your evergreens to prevent damage.

On The Patio

• Continue to check on any patio furniture left out and keep tightly covered. February storms can be brutal to exposed patio furniture.

• Sunny days in February can be great for spending time around an outdoor fireplace.

In The Shed

• Make sure outdoor garden equipment is serviced and ready to use before spring arrives and you need it.
• Clean, oil and repair those garden tools and make sure they are ready for spring garden chores.
• Start stocking up on garden supplies like twine, fertilizer, plant markers, insecticides, etc. now before the spring rush and everyone else is rushing for the same things.

In The House

• Bring in pots of forced bulbs for blooming indoors.

• Spring storms are right around the corner. Consider purchasing a weather alert radio this year to stay abreast of hazardous weather.

• Seed orders start arriving this month. Store seed in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. A refrigerator works well.

• Lobelia, ageratum, verbena, petunia, vinca, or other slow growing plants started from seed, should be started indoors in the later part of the month.

• Check your stored plants such as fuchsias and geraniums, and if they are shriveled water them lightly.

• Summer flowering bulbs you have stored may try to start into growth if they are subjected to heat. Keep them very dry, and stored at 45 degrees F. If they are shriveling, put them into slightly damp peat moss, but keep them cool!

• House plants may notice the longer days, and begin growing. You can begin feeding them again, but use a dilute 50% fertilizer mix until the growth is robust.

• Spend some time going through pictures of last years garden. Organize these into photo albums according to topic or subject.

• Review your notes from last year and make note of changes you want to make this year.

• While going through seed catalogs, take the time to make notes on "Post-It" note paper and attach these to the edges of the pages like page tabs. This will make it easier to find that special plant later.

• With all those new seed catalogs coming in, take some time to organize them in a file cabinet or file box alphabetically or by subject to make it easier to find them later.

• Seed and plant orders must be placed early in order to avoid out of stock items and to insure receiving your order in time for proper planting.

• Treat yourself to a new tool or gadget to try this year - BECAUSE YOU DESERVE IT!

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The information presented in a gardeners calendar is derived from many sources including practical experience of the writer. While we strive to present only fact5ual information, no guarantee is given, whether expressed or implied as to its completeness or accuracy. PO'Folks Ozark Mountain Enterprises accepts no responsibility for any damages resulting from the use of this material. As with all things, PO'Folks Ozark Mountain Enterprises urges all readers to exercise sound reasoning before applying any information they may obtain from any source.