"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". How often have we all heard that quaint little line? Have you ever taken a moment to think about it, or just passed it off as another old saying from antiquity? There's a lot of truth in that cute little line. How many of life's little problems would never rise to plague us if we would simply adhere to practicing a little prevention rather than waiting until we have a problem to deal with? It is a fact that the frugal gardener knows that certain actions on their part will lead to a much reduced chance of contracting a malevolent and potentially devastating plant disease. But, there are times when try as the frugal gardener may, bad things happen to good people and good gardens. The Hillbilly Gardener has known the heartache of seeing a virulent plant disease wipe out an entire crop regardless of what actions he takes here in the Garden of Weedin. Plant diseases and treatment of those diseases can be somewhat of a mystery and a shot in the dark from time to time for the frugal gardener without some time and investigation. Prevention of plant diseases is the first line of defense for the frugal gardener. Whether it's proper housekeeping and sanitary maintenance or planting varieties that are resistant to diseases known to frequent your area, what you do to stave off a plant disease in the first place can have a huge impact on contracting plant diseases and treatment of those diseases when they do choose your own Garden of Weedin to reside in. But, rest assured, while you can perform every prevention action flawlessly, at some point the frugal gardener will have plant diseases come to call from time to time. This has happened to the Hillbilly Gardener more times than he cares to remember here in the Garden of Weedin. When a plant disease does come to call, the Hillbilly Gardener will turn to a homemade remedy and other homemade tips first. Now, this does not guarantee success by choosing to be a responsible, earth friendly frugal gardener. But, it is the observation of the Hillbilly Gardener that a homemade remedy made from safe products he already has around the house is usually the biggest hammer that he needs in order to win the battle of plant diseases and treatment of them . Now, lest anyone get the wrong idea or assumption here, the Hillbilly Gardener is not attempting to convey the idea that he is purely an "organic" gardener here. But rather, get it absolutely clear that the Hillbilly Gardener is a "RESPONSIBLE" gardener. There is a difference – a big difference! The organic gardener is one who is purely "non-chemical" and will not stray from that practice, even if it means giving up an entire seasons worth of effort to a pest or disease. A "responsible" gardener knows that: There are different levels of response that are appropriate for any given situation. Devoting ones self to purely one stance or the other is to cut yourself off from the advantages of the other. Like the human body, the earth has amazing recuperative powers and the rare and occasional use of a properly chosen and properly used chemical will have absolutely no long-term effect on the environment as has been born out by many studies and research. Neither side by itself, holds the answer, or is successful at meeting the long-term food needs of the world. Both sides of this issue is like unto a "double-edged sword" with positive and negative aspects. The responsible frugal gardener will only bring to bear, the amount of force necessary to effect change and then back off to less strong methods. The vast majority of the time, this is by "non-chemical" or "organic" methods. Many of the commonly accepted "organic" methods can be quite toxic to the environment if misapplied or overused.
When it comes to plant diseases and treatment of those diseases, most of the time a homemade remedy and a few other homemade tips are all that is needed. The Hillbilly Gardener chooses a homemade remedy and other homemade tips as his own first line of defense here in the Garden of Weedin and usually has great success. But, the Hillbilly Gardener cannot stress enough to the frugal gardener and especially to the new gardener this fact: "While a homemade remedy (for the garden or in herbal medicine) can be highly effective and relatively safe, with few undesirable side effects, in general the results are often slow in coming and not always appropriate. In general, the homemade remedy or other homemade tips must be used over a period of time in order to see results. NEVER apply any homemade remedy expecting to see the same results as their chemical counterpart. BE PATIENT!" Now, bear in mind that the above statement is generally true most of the time, but not all of the time. Many homemade tips are just as effective and quick as their chemical counterparts. The point that the Hillbilly Gardener is making here is that if you choose to use a homemade remedy toward plant diseases and treatment of those diseases and you do not see immediate results, don't give up on that homemade remedy too quickly. However, there are times when you WILL need to escalate to a "bigger hammer". It is up to the frugal gardener to decide at what point this occurs in your own Garden of Weedin. The Hillbilly Gardener wants to also stress that while each homemade remedy or homemade tips that he presents here has proven to be effective. Not every homemade remedy or homemade tips will prove to be effective in every situation or every growing area. It is up to the frugal gardener to use good judgment as to the proper use of these homemade remedy and homemade tips and at what point is is appropriate to abandon them in favor of another method. The frugal gardener must also accept the fact that there are times when no amount of treatment will be effective. Some of the things to consider here are: The type of plant disease that the frugal gardener is treating. It is imperative that the frugal gardener properly identify the plant disease they are facing before choosing a treatment method. No one remedy is appropriate for every plant disease and even the best remedy often will not work if it is applied to the wrong disease. The severity of the infestation. If the frugal gardener waits to long before starting any treatment, the odds of success can greatly diminish or it may be impossible to stop the disease with any method chosen. The type or types of plants being treated. Many plant types are much more susceptible to a particular disease than others. Whenever possible, grow plants that are resistant to any plant diseases known to be prevalent in your area. Your own growing practices. As a general rule, it is not wise to ever grow members of the same plant family in the same area where others of the same family have been grown recently. A general rule of thumb is to not grow members of the same plant family in the same area more often than once every five to seven years. This is the amount of time that many plant pathogens will survive in the soil.
Now with all that said, and much more can be said on the subject, the frugal gardener should expect that regardless of their efforts there may come a time that you will loose plants to a plant disease. That's the nature of the beast. But, with all of the above gloom and doom said, never let any of these things deter you from jumping in enjoying your Garden of Weedin. Just be aware of the fact that it could happen. If you've done your homework and practice good sanitation practices, the vast majority of the time at least one or more of the homemade remedy and other homemade tips the Hillbilly Gardener presents here will work for the occasional plant disease, if it is treatable by homemade methods.
Here in the Garden of Weedin, the Hillbilly gardener rarely looses a plant to a plant disease and he rarely uses a chemical to do battle with plant diseases. Garden with your eyes and mind wide open. Be aware of the possibilities and get out there and enjoy your garden for all it's worth. You will never be disappointed. Even a bad day in the Garden of Weedin is better than a good day at work. Send us your homemade tips and tricks so that we can pass them on to others to add to their success. We'd appreciate it a whole big Hillbilly bunch. To your continuing gardening success. The Hillbilly Gardener wishes you the very best success and a bountiful harvest.
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Treatments For Damping Off Disease Chamomile Spray Chamomile tea is an excellent preventative for damping-off. Use on seed starting soil, seedlings and in any humid planting area. Chamomile is a concentrated source of calcium, potash and sulfur. The sulfur is a fungus fighter. This can also be used as a seed soak prior to planting. To make: Pour 2 cups boiling water over 1/4 cup chamomile blossoms. Let steep until cool and strain into a spray bottle. Use as needed. This keeps for about a week before going rancid. Spray to prevent damping off and anytime you see any fuzzy white growth on the soil. Chamomile blossoms can be purchased at health food stores and usually grocery stores.
Seaweed Spray
A seaweed spray which is so rich in nutrients and everything that seedlings require can also be used to prevent damp-off. Make a strong mixture adding 2/3 cup of kelp concentrate to 1 gallon of water, spray.
Other Treatments
A fine layer of milled Sphagnum Moss on top of the sterile planting medium will also prevent damping off. Sprinkling a fine layer of cinnamon powder on your starting medium also helps. Horsetail Tea (Equisetum arvense)
The common horsetail plant, which is very invasive, is rich in silicon and helps plants to resist fungal diseases via increasing their light absorbing capabilities. You can use horsetail tea on seedlings and plants in closed environments too! To make: In a glass or stainless steel pot, mix 1/8 cup of dried leaves in 1 gallon of unchlorinated water. Bring to a boil, then let simmer for at least 1/2 hr. Cool and strain. Store extra concentrate in a glass container. Will keep for a month. Dilute this mix, adding 5- parts of unchlorinated water to one part concentrate. Spray plants once every 1-2 weeks Also spray directly on your staring medium. Back To The Top Back To The Tips And Tricks Index NOTE Please take a moment to read the cautionary notes before checking out our tips and tricks. Think of these as "Safety And Satisfaction Tips". (Click Here) |
Homemade Disinfectant When pruning and doing general clean-up in the yard and garden, one of the quickest ways to spread diseases is by using contaminated pruning equipment. The following formula is super easy to make, effective against most infectious agents and costs just pennies to make. Materials Needed: One clean 1 gallon milk jug with tight lid. 1 cup of unscented, plain chlorine bleach (the cheaper the better) 10 cups of distilled water 1 funnel 1 small hand sprayer (I use a 1/2 pint size found in the cosmetics department of many stores) Rubber gloves 1 Permanent Marker or Paint Pen. 1 Measuring cup (1 or 2 cup size)
Wearing rubber gloves to protect your hands from the chlorine bleach pour the bleach and water in together in the gallon milk jug (use the funnel to make this task easier). Place the cap on the jug and gently shake to thoroughly mix. Using the funnel, fill the sprayer bottle with the disinfectant spray. Using a permanent marker or paint pen, label both the spray bottle and milk jug with contents. Don't mix larger quantities unless you have some really heavy pruning needs and always keep the mixture stored in an airtight container. Keep this bottle handy and spray the cutting surfaces of your pruning and cutting equipment (including saws) after each cut to prevent spreading disease. Tip: After the last cut of the day or if you are going to be away from your cutting for a while, spray down the cutting surfaces and after a couple of minutes wipe off the remaining disinfectant. Then spray a good quality oil over the cutting surfaces to prevent corrosion and rusting. Tip: If you are into a heavy day of pruning (say an orchard, etc.) try mixing a larger batch in a bucket that you can simply dip the pruners into. Back To The Top Back To The Tips And Tricks Index
Fungicide Mix #1 - Compost Tea This first formula uses the power of microbes and bacteria in compost to fight many fungal infestations. Materials Needed: Cheese cloth or muslin material approximately 2 feet x 2 feet square 1 - 5 gallon bucket with lid 3 gallons of distilled water (don't use tap water because of the water additives especially fluorides) 2 quarts of sifted finished compost (I strongly recommend your own homemade compost) 1 fine mesh strainer (a large piece tightly woven cotton material works great) 1 hand sprayer or for larger jobs use a pump type garden sprayer. 2-3 clean, 1 gallon milk jugs with tight lids 1 Permanent marker or Paint Pen
Place the compost in the center of the cheese cloth or muslin material and pull it up around the compost and tie it tightly to form a closed bag of compost. Place this bag of compost into the bucket and pour the water over it. Place the lid on the bucket and place it in a shady location to "brew" for 2 - 3 days. Remove the lid and give the tea a swirl or two every day (be careful not to puncture or tear the bag). At the end of the "brewing" period strain the finished brew into your sprayer and then strain the remaining "tea" into the milk jugs for use later (failure to adequately strain the tea could result in a clogged sprayer). Label the milk jugs as to the contents and store in a cool location. Spray all surfaces (including underneath sides of the leaves) of the effected plants and surrounding plants every 4 - 6 days for 2 - 3 weeks. If it rains after applying the tea, spray again immediately after the weather clears. When spraying the effected plant or plants, be sure to spray the ground around the plant as well and cover the surrounding soil with mulch to eliminate splashing soil onto the plant when it rains. Note: This compost tea also makes an excellent natural fertilizer. Note: A compost brewing kit makes this job easy and makes good sense if you want to take advantage of its food value for your plants.
Fungicide Mix #2 - Powdery Mildew Spray This mix is super easy to make and you should have all of the materials at hand already. Materials Needed: 1 Tablespoon baking soda 2 1/2 Tablespoons vegetable oil 1 gallon of distilled water 1 hand or pump-up sprayer (dependent on area to be covered) 1 clean, 1 gallon milk jug with tight lid, optional (the gallon jug that the water comes in will work fine) 1 container for mixing (optional) 1 Permanent Marker or Paint Pen
Place the water, oil and soda into a container and mix well. Pour this mixture into sprayer and spray all surfaces of the plant or plants and surrounding plants including underneath surfaces every week to 10 days. Re-apply if it rains and don't forget to spray the surrounding soil and cover soil with mulch to prevent soil splashing on the plants. Store remaining mixture in a milk jug or the water jug with a tight fitting lid and label the jug with the contents. Note: While spraying, shake the sprayer often to keep the mixture mixed because the oil will separate. Back To The Top Back To The Tips And Tricks Index
Fungicide Mix #3 - Cornell Fungal Formula This fungal formula was developed by the folks at Cornell University and it does require you to buy a couple of things - but it's worth it for really tough fungal problems. I consider this the last line of attack before I resort to a more drastic copper-based product. Materials Needed: 1 Tablespoon baking soda 1 Tablespoon "Horticultural Oil" (this is different than cooking oil) 1 Tablespoon "Insect Soap " 1 gallon distilled water 1 container for mixing (optional) 1 hand or pump-up sprayer (dependent on area to be covered) 1 clean, 1 gallon milk jug with tight-fitting lid (optional) 1 Permanent Marker or Paint Pen
Pour the water and both oils into a container and mix thoroughly. Pour this mixture into sprayer and spray all surfaces of effected plants and surrounding plants (including underneath surfaces) every week or 10 days. Re-apply if it rains. Be sure to spray the surrounding soil and cover with mulch to prevent soil splashing on the plants if it rains. Store any unused mixture in the milk jug and label with its contents away from children and pets. Note: This mixture must be kept agitated while spraying to prevent separation.
Helpful Tips For Sprayers To help improve agitation of solutions in pump-up sprayers, add a "golf ball" to the tank as an agitator. Use sprayers (hand or pump) that are dedicated to one use only, such as insecticides, fungicides, etc. and make sure to label them as such. This will eliminate cross contamination and is especially important if using chemical insecticides, herbicides, etc. Always drain, rinse, and turn sprayers upside down to dry after each use. Don't forget to fill container with clean water and rinse the pump/sprayer assembly by spraying it for a few seconds. Remove the trigger assembly from hand sprayers and pump them dry. Using distilled water to rinse sprayers will prevent mineral build-up in the pump and spray mechanisms.
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Ounces Of Prevention To Avoid Disease The best way to treat a plant disease is not to catch it in the first place. Here are some ways to help prevent contracting or spreading a plant disease that will need to be dealt with later. Keep the foliage dry. Avoid overhead watering whenever possible. If overhead watering is necessary, do so early enough in the day for the foliage to dry completely before nightfall. Drip irrigation systems or soaker hoses not only help prevent diseases, but also save you money in water lost to evaporation and runoff. Prevent soil-born fungus from coming into contact with the foliage from splashing water by keeping the ground around your plants covered with mulch. This will also save you a lot of time and money in weeding and watering. Increase or improve air circulation in and around your plants. Air movement will help prevent fungal spores from lighting and taking up residence. Do not crowd plants and thin the inner growth by pruning to improve air circulation. Keep all diseased and/or fallen vegetative matter cleaned up and discarded. Never discard diseased material into the compost bin. It should be burned or discarded into the trash. Disease organisms can live in the compost and be spread throughout the garden. Practice crop rotation. NEVER grow members of the same plant family in or near the same area for a period of five (5) to seven (7) years. This is how long many disease organisms will remain viable in the soil. If you have had a problem with a particular plant disease, or a particular plant disease is know to be prevalent in your area, plant varieties that are known to be resistant to that disease. Practice good personal hygiene if you handle any plant that is infected with any plant disease, or if you suspect that you may have come into contact with one. Change you clothing and bath thoroughly after coming into contact. Remember, some of these diseases are to your plants what human diseases are to you. The same principles and practices apply. Thoroughly clean and disinfect any and all tools that have come into contact with or have been used around diseased plants. This includes cultivating and digging equipment. Scrape off any soil clinging to the tools back into the same area and disinfect the tools with the disinfectant spray described above. Do not forget to disinfect your footwear as well! Failure to do so will lead to "planting disease organisms" throughout your garden area. If a diseased plant must be removed, either place a bag over the entire plant before removing it or cut it carefully into smaller pieces and carefully place it into a large bag that is then sealed shut. Then disinfect the outside of the bag before removing it from the garden. Remember that many disease organisms can easily become airborne if handled in a rough manner. If you suspect this may be the case, or if you just want the added insurance against airborne contamination, spray the plant with the Cornell Fungal Spray described above first. This will help prevent spores from being dislodged to the air. Any plant that has shown a particular susceptibility to a plant disease should be "Hoiked" (removed) in favor of a less susceptible variety. With all of the wonderful varieties available to gardeners today, there is no justifiable reason to fuss over any plant that must be constantly "fiddled" with. NEVER accept free plants from anyone unless you can inspect their gardens for disease first. To do so may introduce diseases into your garden that the gifter didn't know they had. This is also one reason why many plants can not be exported into and/or out of many states. Whenever possible, only purchase plants certified to be "Disease Free" and those that are state inspected or inspected by the USDA. This does not guarantee that you will never receive a disease, but it will greatly limit your chances.
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