Bountiful Herbs

Simplicity In Green

What gardener, or non-gardener for that matter, doesn't love herbs one way or another? Herbs liven up and add new dimensions to otherwise bland dishes in our kitchen or tickle our noses with their pleasing scents in potpourri and toiletries. Herbs also help keep us healthy or make us feel better when we're ill as commercially prepared medicines or home remedies or maybe just add visual interest to floral arrangements.

The world of herbs that are, or have been used by man for his benefit is one which encompasses literally thousands of members of the plant world. Yet most gardeners do not venture beyond a handful of foundational herbs, mainly used for cooking. This is unfortunate because the world of herbs in its entirety can be a broad and enjoyable pass time. For those seeking to stay within the confines of culinary herbs, the spectrum of unique tastes and qualities can be endless. Yet the world of culinary herbs is but the tip of the iceberg. Along with the culinary uses, there are herbs for medicinal, aroma, dies, insect control, cosmetics and many more. If these reasons are not enough to tweak your interest in trying new herb verities, consider these:

• Collecting herbs can be an enjoyable pass time

• Introduces the grower to many new and unique flavors, aromas and uses

• Provides valuable knowledge about new plants

• Can add visual interest to the garden and landscape

• Collecting herbs is a pass time that can take more than a lifetime to explore

There are few gardeners that either do not or have not grown at least a few herbs. Unfortunately, far to many gardeners who have tried their hand at herbs have experienced results that were less than expected. This is unfortunate because most herbs in general and especially those most commonly grown are less demanding than most of of the other crops they may grow with regularity. So, where do we start when considering growing herbs? The following information is not all inclusive and no one article or series of articles can encompass the whole of the world of herbs. It is perhaps unfortunate, but much of the success of growing and using herbs is based on experience. Experience that will be gained by getting in and trying many different herbs. There will be be successes and yes, there will be disappointments, but even these can be valuable. So let's begin.

1) Start with an understanding of what unique quality about the herb that you are seeking to extract. By this we mean is it a particular flavor for seasoning? And of this, is it a flavor from leaves, seed, bark or flower. Is it an aroma or medicinal quality? Each of these may require a little different approach to how you raise the herb. Because most gardeners will be growing herbs for their culinary qualities, This is the area that we will concentrate on in this article. While the medicinal qualities of herbs is not a subject of discussion here, it is prudent to offer this caution:

Some of the most commonly grown herbs such as thyme, oregano, sage, rosemary, lavender (leaves) and the mint family rely on oils that develop within the plant that are called essential oils. These are concentrated and therefore much stronger with lesser amounts of water and fertilizer. Because the oils are less volatile under cool to normal conditions, these herbs are good candidates for drying for winter use. Other common herbs such as basil, cilantro, fennel, parsley, chives, dill weed (the leaves), tarragon and others have their flavors concentrated in the water-borne juices within the plant. This fact causes the herb to loose flavor quickly and therefore more suitable for fresh use and normally have a relatively short shelf life when dried.

Lastly, many plants serve a dual role of herb or vegetable and spice. For this writer the difference between an herb and a spice being this:

• If the primary part used is vegetative, such as leaves and or flower, to me it is an herb.

• If the primary part used is seed, bark or root, to me it is a spice.

Of course there are exceptions to both of these and thus the reason why there is no consensus as to a clear definition between an herb and a spice. But anyway, if the primary part desired is the dried seed, bark and or stem, there may be a little difference in how you grow these. Some examples of these "dual-role" herbs would be: coriander (the seed of cilantro), fennel, carrot, dill, anise and mustard. All of these things will need to considered when starting your herb garden.

2) Plan your herb garden well before making a commitment. For the most part, your herbs are going to need different growing conditions from your general garden. With herbs, it is flavor, aroma or other qualities other than fruit that you are seeking and many times these qualities can only be brought to their fullest by providing specific conditions that may not be suitable for your general garden. The main exceptions being herbs such as parsley, dill, fennel, and cilantro, which generally require larger growing areas, have similar cultural needs and will do equally well in the garden given good growing conditions.

Consider building raising beds or large containers for the majority of your herbs. Raised beds or containers provide you with the best way of controlling the soil, fertilizer and moisture. Raised beds also allow the gardener the opportunity to group herbs together that have similar growing conditions but containers allow the gardener to double the use of the herbs as a decorative element on a patio, deck or porch. Containers also allow the culinary gardener the added advantage of bringing the herb indoors for fresh use during the winter. Many herbs such as oregano and the mints are better suited to growing within some form of containment area in order to control their invasive qualities.

Location, location, location is of the utmost importance with most commonly used herbs. Beyond harvesting herbs for drying. most fresh herb use will be used "spur of the moment". By this I mean it won't be until you need an herb that you will want to harvest a few sprigs for a culinary dish or possibly a medical need arises out of the blue. The herb gardeners of yesteryear realized this and thusly herbs were planted near the house where they could be gathered quickly when needed. Vegetables on the other hand, could be planned ahead of time because you knew when they were going to be harvested and thus could plan their use ahead of time. But most of the time it is not until a cook has a need of a particular herb that the herb gets harvested and when a dish is being prepared is not a good time to have to run out to a garden some distance from the house.

Exposure is another factor to be considered. The majority of the herbs you will grow will need a minimum of 12 to 14 hours of sunlight daily in order to perform well. While many herbs will tolerate some shade, the flavors may not develop fully with less than full sun. For this reason, if you are growing herbs for other than decorative reasons, take the amount of sunlight they will receive into careful consideration. Another factor is drainage. The majority of the herbs you will grow will not tolerate poorly drained soils. For these, you will need to:

• Increase drainage by removing the top soil and loosening the subsoil, adding organic matter and perhaps some sand or "pea gravel" (finely ground road gravel) and replacing the topsoil. amend the topsoil with compost or other organic matter. The finished growing area should be at least 12 to 14 inches deep.

• Constructing raised beds, loosening the underlying soil and adding organic matter then filling the bed with soil that has been amended with organic matter.

• Growing your herbs in containers.

3) Make a commitment to your herbs. For the most part, herbs require little attention. But the attention they need must be met at the time needed or an entire years work will be lost. Good examples of this are basil and cilantro. When it comes to basil, it will normally try to flower early in the year and the flowers will often appear almost overnight. Once flowering starts, the flavor within the leaves will quickly deteriorate and the plant will be lost for culinary use. However, the blooming plants make a great food source for bees and other pollinators, so you may want to grow some extras for them. Therefore, the plant must be kept pinched back in order to maintain a steady supply of tasty leaves. This is normally done by removing the top one or two inches of each stem (to a set of leaves) in order to promote new leaf growth. Inspect the plants every day or two and cut the top one or two inches of stem growth off of any flowering stem as soon as it appears. Cilantro is much the same, with the exception that you can normally only pinch them back so long and then they are going to seed no matter what. This point will normally be evidenced by a noticeable decline in the flavor of the leaves. At that point, either remove the plant or let it seed normally and harvest coriander seed after the seed ripens.

4) Group your herbs according to the growing conditions they prefer. This is not a factor with container grown herbs, but if you grow and use many herbs, you will no doubt grow many of them in raised beds or at least beds dedicated to growing herbs. Raised beds are a great way to grow most herbs and they can be constructed for little or no money and from any material that is handy or appropriate. In earlier days or in a formal garden, herb beds were often quite decorative and became an integral part of the landscape. But for most gardeners, a bed of two to four feet wide by however long you want, will do very nicely. For most gardeners, two or more beds will be required. One for herbs such as thyme, sage, rosemary, etc., which will be kept dryer and leaner and one for herbs such as cilantro, parsley, chives, etc. which will be kept moister and have regular applications of fertilizer.

5) Consider alternate uses for your herbs other than for culinary purposes. Many herbs, especially those of the "Umbelliferae" family are especially beneficial as a food and nursery source for many butterflies, predatory wasps and other beneficial insects. This group of herbs includes cumin, parsley, carrot, coriander/cilantro, dill, caraway, fennel, parsnip, celery, Queen Anne's Lace and other relatives. The botanical name "Umbelliferae" is often still used but has since been reclassified as "Apiaceae" in case you're a diehard terminology purest. The earlier name Umbelliferae derives from the inflorescence (flowering head) being generally in the form of a compound "umbel", and has the same root as the word "umbrella".

As butterflies are an integral interest for many gardeners, consider either planting extras or an entire second bed that can be a mix of many different herbs just for them. The first group of herbs for yourself should be kept sprayed with insecticidal soap to discourage insects or insecticides such as "Pyola®", pyrethrum or other biological controls, while the second is left alone for the caterpillars. This "butterfly nursery" will probably be best planted away from the house, but keep it within an area where you can take every opportunity to use it to teach children about nature and watch as the caterpillars develop from larva (worm) to butterflies. For that matter, this bed can be a great source of entertainment and education for yourself.

Consider planting some herbs of non-culinary species in this bed as well. Herbs such as rue which serves as a food and nursery plant for swallowtail butterflies and members of the "Asclepia" (milkweed) family are primary sources of both food, nursery and shelter for such insects as Monarch butterflies and a wide range of beneficial insects. This family also includes the milkweeds seen along roadsides and the bright orange "butterfly weed". A final note on the milkweeds is that not only do they provide food, shelter and nursery for insects, but they also provide a great source of material for "natural" Christmas decorations and floral decorating material with their dried pods. Most of the Asclepia species will not be available from seed sources, so you may have to plan an outing or two in order to collect seed. Before gathering any seed from the wild, be sure to check with your local conservation office about any restrictions on gathering seed. Never dig plants from the wild in public areas or road rights-of-way. Besides, most of these will not transplant well or not at all unless dug very small. Once a species is established, you can collect the seed each year for new crops each year.

6) Once you have considered all of the items above and have beds and/or containers planted, you will need to care for your herb garden for maximum harvest. As stated earlier, most herbs do not require a great deal of care or high degrees of fertilizer. However, this does not mean that they need none at all. This care begins in the spring when new growth begins for perennial or biennial herbs or at planting time for annuals. Start with an application of fresh compost or well rotted manure. For perennial herbs such as thyme, sage, rosemary and other aromatics, add fresh compost around each plant and lightly mix it into the soil as a side dress when new growth begins. For annual herbs, add compost or rotted manure and dig it into the soil before planting.

Generally, this is adequate for most herbs, especially the aromatics. For all herbs, you should start with a soil test and only add fertilizers or individual elements to keep the soil well balanced. Excessive fertilizers, especially nitrogen should be avoided otherwise you will end up with lush growth and decreased flavor and aroma. For perennial herbs that have been growing in the same location for some time or for new planting areas, adequate herb growth can be achieved with 1/4 to 1/2 the nitrogen recommended for vegetables in your area. Sequential harvests of annual herbs will be facilitated by light applications of fertilizer after each heavy harvest. These fertilizers are best used as slow-release types in order to avoid excessive uptake at any one time. The pH of the soil should be kept in a range of 6.5 to 7.0 for the best herbs.

An organic mulch such as straw, shredded leaves, etc. should be applied to your herbs to help control moisture and suppress weeds. Mulch is essential for most of the aromatics as the roots tend to be fairly shallow and easily damaged from cultivation. This mulch will also help control soil from being splashed onto the herbs and keep them clean at harvest time.

7) Pests, insects and disease are usually not a problem with aromatic herbs due to the high concentration of oils, which tend to repel most insects. Occasionally, aphids and spider mites can be problem. Aphids tend to be more prevalent in crowded conditions where rapid, succulent growth is taking place. Spider mites thrive during periods of hot, dry weather. Both of these are usually easily controlled by a strong blast of water from a garden hose. Should it become necessary to go beyond this, a good quality of insecticidal soap can be used. In certain conditions, grasshoppers can be problem. In this case pyrethrum based sprays for vegetables may need to be employed, hand picking the insects or for those lucky enough to live on a farm, invite your chickens and ducks into your herb garden for natural pest control.

Annual herbs can be another issue as the highly aromatic oils are not present at the same levels and caterpillars can be a problem. For these, you may need to employ a regular schedule of spraying with insecticidal soap or hand picking the caterpillars. This is normally enough to control them. If not, one or two sprays of a pyrethrum based insecticide for vegetables will bring the problem under control. Along with caterpillars, aphids and spider mites can be an issue. For these, follow the instructions given above for aromatic herbs.

Occasionally, fungal diseases will invade your herbs. These are generally best controlled by good sanitation practices.

• Remove all weak, damaged or infected parts of the plant.

• Keep plant debris and fall leaves cleaned up and removed.

• Provide good air circulation.

• Never handle the plant when it is wet.

• Water early so that the foliage has a chance to dry before nightfall.

• Avoid wetting the foliage.

• Thoroughly wash your hands and change your clothes after handling diseased plants.

• Sanitize pruners or other tools after handling each plant.

• If it becomes necessary, use a fungicide labeled for use on use on vegetables. Try one of the homemade fungicides outlined here.

8) Unless you are growing herbs simply for the decorative value, harvesting herbs for use is usually the primary goal of everyone who grows herbs and harvesting herbs for culinary use is the most widely use of herbs grown today. The stage of growth as well as the means by which an herb is harvested and stored can mean the difference between a tasty addition to your cooking or a vegetative "filler" with little or terrible taste. For the purposes of this article we are concentrating on the culinary use of herbs, but harvesting methods are similar for all uses.

Herbs all have a particular point in their growth cycle when the essential oils or other elements are at their fullest. The part of the plant being harvested, whether leaves, flowers, stems or roots will also make a difference in when the herb is harvested. Unfortunately, no one article can provide instruction on all of the herbs available and grown by gardeners and some experience will be required. The purpose of this article is provide you with some basic information to get you pointed in the right direction. In general, flowers and leaves will be treated the same way.

For many, especially the aromatics, this will be just as the herb is getting ready to flower. For some of these, such as thyme, the flavors will be maintained throughout flowering, but may diminish shortly after flowering and the plant starts to set seed. For others, such as basil, cilantro, fennel, parsley and others, setting flowers will cause the flavors to deteriorate. Taking time to learn about each herb will provide the gardener with the proper time to harvest each one. Suggested harvest times for various herbs will be the subject of a future article.

If you have mulched your herbs properly, they will be relatively clean to begin with. But, they have been growing outdoors so they will have collected at least some dust that will need to be washed off. Additionally, if you have used any sprays on your herbs, whether organic or not, any residue remaining will need to be removed. Many authorities recommend washing your herbs after they are harvested. I prefer to wash them off the day before with a forceful, but gentle spray from the hose. I use an adjustable nozzle that I can adjust to a fine spray and angle upwards to wash the undersides of the leaves. This dislodges not only the dirt and spray residues, but also any critters that may be remaining. Allow the plants to dry overnight If you wash after harvest, you will need to pat them dry on a towel or paper towels before you start the drying process.

Here are some general instructions for harvesting leaves, flowers, roots and seeds:

• Leaves and flowers.
  These should be cut in the morning soon after the dew has dried from the plant. Do your harvesting on a dry, sunny day that has been preceded by at least two sunny, dry days for maximum concentration of oils. Cut flowering stems when the flower buds are just beginning to open. An exception to this is the mints, which develop their highest concentrations of oils when the flower spikes are in full bloom.
  
  If your harvest is to be large quantities of herbs, use a mesh or other open-weave basket to allow air circulation. Never stuff your herbs into buckets or plastic bags. These allow heat to build up and cause the flavor to deteriorate. Harvest only as much as you can conveniently process and dry at one time. You can cut back most perennials to about one-half. Most annuals can be cut down to a few inches. If it is near the end of the season, consider pulling annuals entirely. If you didn't wash the herbs previously, do so now with cool water and spread them on towels, patting off as much water as possible.
  
  For drying, there are a variety of options available to the gardener. In days past, the common practice was to dry herbs in a dedicated building or portion of a barn that was dedicated to herbs called a "still house". This building would be dry and warm, but well ventilated. It would have provision for hanging bunches of herbs from the rafters as well as screen-covered wracks. The purpose was to provide a warm, dry environment with good air circulation for rapid drying away from the sun.
  
  Today, any dark, well-ventilated room where the temperatures run between 70 to 90 degrees F can be used as well as the rafters of an open garage, shed or even a ventilated attic. You can use screen-covered frames (window screens work well) over which cheese-cloth has been applied (never place your herbs directly on the screen wire, a warm oven (if it can be set low enough with the door propped open) or specially designed dehydrators provided they have good temperature control. Some people even claim to have good success using a microwave. However, I'm skeptical of using a microwave due to the way it heats objects and the potential to damage the herbs at the cellular level. Whatever means you choose should be prepared ahead of time and ready as soon as the herbs are prepared.
  
  Some herbs are best having the leaves stripped from the stems before drying and laid in a single layer on wracks. These include: basil, dill, lemon balm, lovage, mint, sage, lemon verbena and tarragon. Herbs that have small leaves can be dried left on their stems. These include: thyme, summer and winter savory, rosemary, oregano and marjoram. The leaves will be removed after thorough drying for storage. Herbs in this category are traditionally tied in small bunches and hung to dry. However, they can be laid in a single layer on wracks just as well. The advantage to hanging the herbs in bunches is that it frees up wrack space for other herbs.
  
  Should you decide to dry in bunches, gather together bunches of herbs about the same diameter as your finger (roughly 1/2-3/4 inch diameter). Bind these together using rubber bands that fit snuggly around the bundle then hang in single bunches from a rafter or other wrack. Space your bunches far enough apart so that they do no touch, for maximum air circulation. As the bundles dry and shrink, the rubber bands will keep your bundles tight. Check your bundles often and remove the leaves from the stems for proper storage as soon as they are thoroughly dry.
  
  Given the right conditions, herb leaves and flowers should be dry in three or four days. I n the event of cool and/or humid weather, it may become necessary to spread your herbs onto a cookie sheet and finish them off in a warm oven at 115-125 degrees for a few minutes. In order to achieve this, you may need to use a thermometer and adjust the door open. Do not exceed 125-130 degrees F. or the herbs may be damaged and turn your pan or pans around frequently to assure even drying. Once dry, store in airtight containers in a dry, cool, dark place.
  
  If you are using a commercial dehydrator/ dryer, do not rely on the factory settings as these are often wrong and the temperatures that are actually produced will either be to high or to low. Choose a dryer that has an adjustable thermostat and then check the actual temperature of the air using a thermometer and adjust the heat accordingly.
  
  The above instructions are for herbs that can be dried, but many herbs do not dry well and are best frozen. These herbs include basil, dill, cilantro and chives. In fact, most of your less savory or aromatic herbs will be more flavorful by freezing. To freeze herbs, start as with other herbs by washing and drying the leaves. Plunge the leaves into unsalted boiling water for 30 to 50 seconds or just until they start to become soft. Immediately remove the leaves and plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process. This is a process called "blanching".
  
  Remove the leaves to paper towels or a towel and roll tightly to remove excess water. Then remove and coarsely chop the leaves (you can chop them finer later if your dish calls for finely chopped leaves). Place approximately one tablespoon of tightly packed leaves into each cell of an ice cube tray and place into the freezer to freeze overnight. After freezing remove from the ice cube trays, place in labeled freezer bags and store in the freezer for up to three months. A vacuum sealer will increase the storage time to almost six months. The next time your dish calls for herbs, simply remove the number of tablespoons of herb you need and return the rest to the freezer.
  
  Some sources say that dill, chives and basil do not need blanching. I prefer to blanch all of my non-savory herbs, but you should experiment for yourself to determine which method works best for you and you prefer.
   

• Roots
  Some herbs you may want to try, such as angelica and lovage produce roots that are often used. Dig these roots in the fall after the top growth has died down or very early spring before new growth begins. Thoroughly wash the roots and slice or split the large roots for faster drying. For drying, the roots can be placed on screens lined with cheesecloth and placed in a warm location like an attic to dry. For faster drying you can place these in single layers in a food dehydrator or commercial dryer at 120-125 degrees F turning several times each week. It may be necessary to finish the roots off in a warm oven if they don't dry sufficiently in the dryer. It may take as long as six to eight weeks to properly dry some roots. Periodically test the roots for dryness. They should snap when you bend them with no rubbery consistency. When dry, store your roots in airtight containers in a cool, dark location.
   

• Seeds
  Seeds of coriander, dill, fennel, caraway, anise and celery are easily grown at home. When the plants begin to mature and turn yellow, but before the seed is fully mature and starts to drop, cut the seed heads leaving a few inches of stem. The traditional way to dry them is to tie the seed heads into bunches and hang inside paper bags until dry. If you want faster drying, trim the stems very short and place on drying wracks for five to six days, or until the seed can be knocked off the heads easily. Remove the chaff, and then spread on drying sheets for another week, stirring frequently to prevent molding. Store the seeds in airtight containers in a cool dark location after they are completely dry.

9) Many herbs can be successfully grown indoors in the winter, however the rate of growth will normally be slower and these should be used fresh. Herbs grown indoors require basically the same growing conditions as outdoors. They should be placed in a sunny west or south window in containers filled with well-drained potting soil. For most gardeners, I would strongly suggest the addition of supplemental grow lights as well, due to the decreased light intensity in the winter. If a sunny window is not available, most herbs that would normally do well indoors can be successfully grown under grow lights for fresh herbs all winter long.

Most soilless mixes of peat, vermiculite and/or perlite will work well as long as they have a neutral pH. If you are in doubt, take a soil test for pH. If it tests to be be acidic, add a cup of ground limestone per bushel or about one teaspoon per five-inch pot to the mix. However, most high quality prepackaged potting mixes already have limestone added to the mix.

Good drainage is vital to herbs, whether indoors or out. Never allow your herbs to sit in saucers of water. Water to the point that water starts to run out the bottom of the container, allow the excess water to drain from the container and then drain the excess water from the saucer. Allow the container to dry moderately between waterings.

Seed new crops of annual herbs in late summer for growing indoors and discard in the spring. Perennial herbs can be raised in containers that are moved indoors during the winter or dug in the fall and potted up for fresh herbs in winter. Perennial herbs will perform best if moved outdoors in spring when the weather has warmed. Potted herbs can be plunged up to their rims in the garden in spring, but remember that these will dry out faster, so additional watering will be required. In the fall these can be lifted and brought indoors before the first frost. A light frost on such herbs as chives, mints, and tarragon will not harm the herbs. Keep all of your potted herbs in a location that will receive some protection from intense heat and winds.

While indoors, fertilize your herbs with a good quality houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter strength or just enough to maintain healthy growth. Keep your herbs pinched back to maintain a pleasing shape and appearance and use consistently to keep new growth coming on.

10) Many perennial herbs are perfectly fine grown outdoors year round, yet others, including some that are not known to be hardy in your area will need special attention when the cool weather of fall appears. This is a dilemma that plagues many gardeners every year as winter approaches. Of course, for annuals and tender perennials that you plan on moving indoors, this is not an issue. But what about all of those you either cannot or choose not to move indoors? For many herbs, preparation for fall begins with the spring planting. Start with the herbs that may not be hardy in your area. If you are only a zone or two outside of the herbs preferred growing region, you may opt for carefully choosing a "micro-climate" within your landscape where the herb can find a warmer growing area.

You've heard me talk about micro-climates before, but for those of you who are new or perhaps have forgotten, a micro-climate is simply an area where, due to surrounding structures and/or vegetation, the climate gets "modified" to one degree or another. Normally, you will want to look for areas along the south side (in the northern hemisphere) of buildings, walls, fences or the south side of dense shrubs, etc. these areas tend to be warmer throughout the year and in particular, the winter. However, the exact opposite may be true for a few herbs, which may require a cooler location than your current growing area. However, consider the light requirements of the herb you are considering to plant in a northerly location. If it needs full sun, it is possible for the herb to grow well if the wall or structure is painted white or some other very light color. This would be a consideration for gardeners in more southerly locations attempting to grow herbs native to more northerly areas.

By planting marginal plants in micro-climates, along with winter mulch, it is possible to grow many herbs you might not otherwise be able to grow. But what about all of the others that are hardy where you grow? For herbs grown directly in the ground, a covering of leaves or straw applied after the ground freezes (for most northern gardeners) will normally be all that is needed to protect your herbs through winter. The reason for applying the mulch after the ground freezes is not to prevent the ground from freezing, but rather to keep it frozen. Repetitive freezing and thawing of the soil will heave (push out) many herbs out of the ground. Mulching insulates the soil and helps prevent heaving.

Here in the Ozarks (as well as many other areas of the country), we no longer have winters that will freeze the soil more than a few inches. I mulch early in the fall, not to keep the ground frozen per say, but rather to stabilize the ground and allow it to heat and cool slowly. If it does freeze, the mulch will keep it frozen. If it does not freeze, it will keep it warm enough for the roots to continue to grow. Every area is different, but mulch is always a good idea whether early or late in the fall.

Container grown perennial herbs are different story. The root system is contained in a relatively small area that is susceptible to temperature changes. These will normally freeze solid when it gets cold, but will thaw just as quickly. Additionally, the containers are susceptible to cracking with winters freezing. There are a couple of ways to approach caring for these herbs reliably. After the first hard freeze:

1. Bring the containers into a protected, but unheated area like an unheated garage or shed. If shed normally gets very cold and then warms inside during the day, you will want to wrap the containers with old blankets or insulation (use the wrapped insulation) to keep them frozen.

2. Group the pots together inside of an enclosure keeping the tops of the pots relatively the same height (this makes it simpler to find individual pots later). Ideally, the enclosure will be in a protected area that is shielded from the winter winds. The enclosure can be as simple as chicken wire that is approximately six inches higher than your tallest pot or a cold frame or other such enclosure. Space the pots approximately 4 to 6 inches apart to allow putting insulating mulch later and keep the entire grouping not more than 3 or 4 feet wide (or narrower if you will be working from only one side) so you can reach each pot later. Place some form of stake or flag into each pot to make it easier to find each one later.
   
   Now obtain a bale or two of straw mulch and find an area of your lawn where there are leaves that need to be cleaned up. Scatter an inch or two of straw over a large area of leaves and using a bagging mower (rent one for this project if needed) grind both straw and leaves together. Use this to fill in around your potted herbs. Continue this process until all of the spaces are loosely filled and the pots are covered with approximately 6 inches of the straw-leaf mixture.
   
   This method takes a little longer, but the addition of the leaves to the straw helps retain more moisture than straw alone and will require less winter watering. Straw alone can be used, but the pots will dry out faster. If you live in an area that gets a lot of snow and rain in the winter, straw alone has an added advantage of not compacting a s much as the straw-leaf mixture. If you use the straw-leaf mixture, you will want to grind a few trash cans full of extra mulch for topping off. I personally like the straw-leaf mixture because winter watering outside can be quite a chore. Use leaves alone only as a last resort because the leaves alone stay too wet and compact to the point that they can smoother your herbs.

During the winter, your herbs may be dormant but there is still activity in the roots. Therefore, you will need to periodically check your pots and water them sparingly during the winter when the weather moderates. Do not soak the soil because it dries very slowly in cold weather, which could cause the roots to rot. Keep the soil just slightly damp and water only when the soil dries an inch or so down.

When the weather starts to warm in the spring (usually March here in the Ozarks), start watching for signs of renewed growth. If you stored your herbs outdoors, remove most of the mulch that is covering the pots (the top only) and all of the top mulch as soon as new growth begins. Whether stored inside or out, remove your herbs to a protected, but sunny location as soon as new green growth appears and begin watering normally. After new growth has begun in earnest, give your herbs a light feeding of slow-release fertilizer. These applications apply equally as much for your herbs growing in the ground. Place the mulch you remove in compost pile for recycling.

11) Everyone who raises herbs knows the full, heady taste and aroma that fresh herbs bring to the senses when added to culinary creations. We'll use herbs that have been preserved when we have to but prefer fresh herbs when we have them. Preserved herbs are great when all else is dead and covered with snow outside. But wouldn't it be great to be able to infuse our dishes with more of that great taste that we cherish? Wouldn't it be nice to be able to infuse your food with even more of that great taste of summer? There is!

Most modern cooks already know about the great basil taste of Pesto, that culinary wonder given to us by the Italians and some have seen and maybe tried herbed vinegars. Why not consider making your own herbed butters, oils and vinegar's. These are nothing more than butters, oils and vinegar's that have been infused with your favorite herbs during summers bounty and are great ways to use up the last herbs of summer before winters cold relegates them to great summer memories. Herbed butters, oils and vinegars can be used any time butter, oil or vinegar are called for, but with a surprising twist. And remember, there are few rules with these. Just about any of your favorite herbs and herb combinations will work. So don't be afraid to experiment. Also consider that these make thoughtful and welcome gifts that will keep giving over a long time. One note on herbed oils - there is some concern among some regarding oils developing botulism in the oil and many recommend keeping the oil in the refrigerator for only a short time. I have not found this to be an issue if good sanitation practices are met.

1. Keep your hands, herbs and containers washed and clean.

2. Sterilize containers before filling them by immersing them in simmering (not boiling) water for two minutes prior to filling.

3. Heat oils to be used to 170 to 180 degrees F and fill containers with hot oil. This will kill any organisms left in the containers and on the herbs.

4. Lid the containers loosely after filling (just as in canning). Tighten and seal the lids after cooling if necessary.

5. Keep opened or unsealed containers of oil in the refrigerator.

Regarding herbed butters, most recipes call for rolling the butter into a log, but here are a few tricks that I like to use for storage, convenience and presentation.

1. Mold herbed butters in cocktail ice cube trays. Each cell holds about one to one and one-half tablespoons. Just the right size for a single serving.

2. Mold herbed butters in foil cupcake papers for servings where individual servings may not be appropriate.

3. Store individual servings in zipper seal freezer bags of 6 to 12 servings per bag for convenience.

4. Store cupcake molds one or two per bag, in the foil papers until needed.

5. Butters will keep in the freezer for two to three months. Vacuum sealers will increase this to four to six months.

6. Gently fold herbs into softened butter. Never beat the butter rapidly or vigorously. Avoid incorporating as much air as possible into the butter. Air will cause the herbs to deteriorate.

7. Vegetable margarine can be used if necessary, but never use soft or spreadable margarine. These contain entrained water, which will deteriorate herbs quickly. Margarine butters do not keep as well in the freezer as butter. So plan on using these quickly.

8. Clarified herb butters have a delightful, light texture that goes well with vegetables, fish, sea food and fresh herb blossoms. Consider placing clean, fresh herb blossoms of chive, nasturtium, borage and others upside down in ice cube trays and covering with partially cooled, clarified butter for a delightful presentation on baked potatoes, fish and vegetables.

Here are a few tried and true recipes to get you started. But don't be shy at experimenting to create your own personal combinations:

Herbed Butter

Basic Herbed Butter

Herbed Butter For Pasta

Herbed Butter For Meat

Herbed Oil

Due to concerns of possible botulism, see the notes above on making herbed oils.

Herbed Oils can be used in a variety of marinades, sautés, salads, and as a dip for crusty breads.  The proportion of oil to herb is important as far as strength and taste of the finished product, so use the guidelines below to start, and then you can certainly experiment on your own with different combinations and strengths.

The new procedure suggested by some for making flavored herbal oils is to measure the appropriate amount of cleaned and chopped herbs (1/2 cup chopped fresh herb sprigs or leaves and 1/4 cup dried), place in a non-metal pan with a cup of oil (olive, peanut, safflower, or sunflower oil are appropriate), then gently sauté the herbs in the oil until it's fragrant and warm - about 5 minutes.  Sauté gently and do not let this mixture come to a boil. Strain, place in decorative bottles, and store in the refrigerator.

The traditional procedure for making herbed oils is to rinse and towel dry fresh herbs, place in jar and mash with wooden spoon. Can use one herb or a combination. Pour oil over herbs in jar, cover jar with cloth and tie with string. Set in a sunny spot for 2 weeks, stirring daily. Strain, pour oil in clean, sterilized jars and store in refrigerator. Use for sautéing, dressings, or marinades.

J.D.s Herbed Olive Oil

Corn Oil Herb Blend

Herb Infused Olive Oil

Herbed Vinegar

1. Most native vinegars are known to be unpasteurized. Although the microorganisms present in vinegars pose no immediate harm, it is wise to heat the vinegar to 170-180 degrees F.

2. Most of the ingredients wilt during the steeping process. For gifts and presentation purposes, the herbs and other materials can be replaced with fresh ones once the vinegar has cooled down.

3. Use bottles, jars and glass containers with ample stoppers or covers. These should be free from chips and cracks.

4. Prepare the containers by washing in warm soapy water to remove stubborn oils and residue from previous contents. Make sure to rinse them thoroughly and air dry. Sterilize the containers prior to filling by immersing the containers in boiling water for a few minutes prior to filling (as you would canning jars). After sterilizing, place the containers on clean towels away from drafts until cooled slightly. Fill with hot liquid while still containers are still hot.

5. Do not crowd the ingredients. Fill the containers while the vinegar is warm with an allowance of at least an inch from the top. Cover and seal while it is still warm.

Basic Herbed Vinegar

Aromatic Herbed Vinegar

Spicy Herbed Vinegar

the "Hillbilly Gardener"