Dinner Is Served

Setting The Dinner Table For Your Feathered Friends

Each year as fall approaches, gardeners all over look forward to the changing of the season with anticipation of the cooler weather, the return of rains which have been scant or non-existent all summer, new opportunities and the upcoming holidays. As we enter into fall each year, our feathered friends also greet the changing seasons with anticipation of yet another year of moving to warmer climates in the south or securing sources of the basic necessities to face yet another winter. As the obliging hosts that we gardening and outdoor people are, we are more than happy to oblige our feathered friends. The ranks of people who willingly make life a little easier for these feathered friends swells to an estimated 62 million people each year who engage in feeding birds each fall and winter. This is the result of an increasing interest in providing for wildlife in general, and is only fitting as the amount of natural wildlife areas and cover continues to dwindle and shrink more each year. Providing food for wild birds will help the winter pass more comfortably for them, while adding interest and activity to your winter days. Come spring, as the nesting season unfolds, you'll have the added pleasure of recognizing many of the birds as individuals who enjoyed your offerings during the winter months.

As responsible gardeners and outdoor people, we have a responsibility to assist our co-inhabitants of this planet whenever possible. Especially in light of the fact that it is us as humans, who continue to put unwarranted stress and pressure on our wildlife co-inhabitants. But what unintentional harm will we impart on our feathered friends if we interfere by providing them with a ready source of food. Won't they become dependent on us, and won't we be interfering with their natural migration tendencies?

Studies with banded birds has shown that even with ready sources of food available, birds still forage in many different areas and at many different locations. Even if our ready source of food is no longer available the interruption is at best no hardship and at worst a minor inconvenience for the birds. However, we being the gracious hosts that we are, we want our feathered friends to feel welcome and comfortable in our yards. So considering the pleasure, songs and pest control they freely give us without being asked, we choose to reciprocate by offering them ready sources of food in payment. Besides, it makes us feel good to know we gave something back to nature.

As to interrupting the birds natural migration drive. This is a natural instinct that is triggered primarily by day length (photoperiod) and not by availability of food. This drive may however, and sometimes is modified by external influences such as weather, but in the end the drive to migrate always wins out and the birds fly south to warmer climates. Evidence of this is readily seen in such species as Hawks, Eagles, Ducks, Geese and Doves. Each of these species are carefully monitored and much documentation exists to indicate that weather has a particularly strong effect on many species. In years when the cold and snow of winter is late in coming, the normal migration patterns and range is altered until the changing weather drives them further south. While in other species, the photoperiod trigger is so strong that migration dates have shown up on calendars. Another consideration in favor of providing a much welcomed easy food source for our migrating visitors is that long migrations require a lot of energy. Energy that your offerings can provide. So don't be concerned about your offerings causing your feathered friends to get their tail feathers frost bitten.

But before we can start any hospitality program it is helpful to understand the basic requirements of our feathered friends. Birds are not at all demanding, but they do have some basic requirements that must be met. These basic requirements are food, water and cover. To be truly successful at attracting feathered guests long-term, you must make every effort to provide the greatest amount of the these basic necessities as possible and you will be rewarded with year round pleasure from your feathered guests.

What to feed

Ok, so you've decided to also be a gracious host and provide for the feathered visitors that pass through your area. Where do you begin? First take a look at the various offerings commonly available:

• Black Oil Sunflower seed - These are high in oil content to provide energy and are thin shelled, so they are easy to shell. They are also smaller than the familiar "striped" sunflower seeds that are consumed by humans. These are a preferred or readily eaten food source for a wide variety of birds and are part of what I call the "Holy Trinity" of preferred foods that will attract the greatest number of birds. Black Oil Sunflower seed, coupled with Proso Millet and Suet will accommodate most of the birds that come to your feeders.
• Black or Grey Striped Sunflower seed - This is the familiar sunflower seeds sold as snacks for human consumption. While these are eaten by some bird species, the hulls are much thicker and harder than the Black Oil type and therefore are only eaten by birds with large, strong beaks that are able to break through the hull.
• Hulled Sunflower seed - The hulled kernels of striped sunflower seeds. These are greatly enjoyed and eaten by many birds. But the expense of Hulled Sunflower seeds is very high and therefore is not normally used as a large scale bird food. If you do choose to feed them, they could be used in place of the Black Oil type.
• Proso millet - Proso Millet comes in both the familiar and vastly common white variety, as well as a red variety which is less common. Millet is not to be confused with Milo (Grain Sorghum) which is larger, much cheaper and is commonly used as a "low grade", inexpensive filler in seed mixes and often erringly called "millet" but is normally kicked out on the ground by most birds. Proso Millet is the second of the "Holy Trilogy" of bird food offerings.
• Corn - This is available as cracked and whole kernel. Generally, the whole kernel is not used as a food source unless you're feeding Squirrels, Ducks or Turkeys. Cracked corn is a favorite among many birds, especially ground and platform feeding birds. However, cracked corn tends to absorb moisture readily and molds easily, so care must be exercised to keep it away from moisture and spread it on the ground only as needed for ground feeders.
• Niger Thistle - Also known as "Nyjer", "Niger" and "Thistle" seed. This small seed that is highly enjoyed by many small birds is not related to the common purple thistle that is the bane of so many farms, fields and yards. In fact it is not a thistle at all. Guizotia abyssinica or "noog" is an erect, stout, branched annual herb, grown for its edible oil and seed. Its cultivation originated in the Ethiopian highlands, and has spread to other parts of Ethiopia and India.
• Nut Meats - These are most commonly peanuts, but can be just about any nut variety or a mix of nuts. In order to accommodate the widest range of birds, the nuts should be broken up into smaller pieces. In all cases, the nuts must be unsalted as the additional salt could prove harmful to the birds.
• Safflower - Carthamus tinctorius is a member of the Aster family with a long history of use as a source of die for cloth and has medicinal properties. In recent years, Safflower has become popular as a valuable source of edible oil and a viable and valuable substitute for sunflower seed in feeding birds. Safflower has the advantages of being high in oil content and well liked by many birds. It also has the advantage of being highly disliked by squirrels and rodents as well as many of the large nuisance birds like Starlings, Pigeons and Grackles.
• Fruits - Many fruits are highly enjoyed by many birds. The fruits normally offered include, but not limited to: raisins, currents, apples, oranges, melons, crabapples and cherries. With the exception of oranges and melons, which are normally served fresh, the other fruits are normally served as dried fruit, which many people soak for a while to soften before serving to your their feathered guests. While not actually a fruit, but not a nectar either, Grape jelly can be a very effective food and energy source for some birds that eat fruits and/or nectar and is often placed in small saucers along side or near fruits.
• Suet -Suet is a naturally hard form of Beef fat that is generally found in the area of and on the kidneys and is melted (rendered) to create a form of fat that can be molded into cakes. Suet is normally mixed with other seed, fruits and nuts to thicken it, make it more stable and give it more substance for the birds. However, mixing it with other ingredients is not necessary, but it does stretch the amount of fat, keep it from getting quite as soft if the weather warms and helps to satisfy the birds better. Suet made from fat is normally a cold weather food as it melts and gets rancid in hot weather. For fall and winter bird feeding, Suet is the third part of the bird feeding "Trilogy". Visit our website for recipes to make your own suet cakes and a fun project for fall.
• Peanut Butter dough - While actually a different product altogether, peanut butter dough is often used interchangeably in the same way as Suet cakes. In fact, peanut butter dough is sometimes sold as vegetable Suet. Like Beef Suet cakes, peanut butter dough is usually mixed with other bird foods such as seed, fruit and nuts. (Find a recipe for Peanut Butter Dough on our website)
• Nectar - For the purposes of feeding birds, nectar is nothing more than sugar water and provides supplemental energy. The nectar you offer should contain nothing more than sugar and water. Do not use food coloring, honey or artificial sweeteners in your nectar, as these can be harmful to the birds. Red food coloring is added by some commercial products and studies show that it serves no purpose other than to please our own sense of aesthetics. In fact, some food colorings are actually toxic to birds. Honey added to the solution can actually kill a Hummingbird as well as makes an excellent breeding ground for bacteria. Artificial sweeteners, besides possibly being toxic to birds, adds no energy value which is the sole reason birds drink it. Visit our website for directions on how to make your own nectar.
• Wheat, Milo, Oats, Rice and other cereal grains - These are grain products that are often found in bird food mixes as fillers and are of little use for most of the birds you will be wishing to attract. While these are all good foods for such birds as Turkeys, Quail and Ducks, These also have a habit of attracting nuisance birds like Starlings, Grackles and Pigeons. Cereal grains also have a bad habit of attracting rodents such as mice and rats. So unless it is your intention to feed the above mentioned birds, save yourself some money by avoiding these food choices.

How to feed

Now that you have a basic understanding of what foods are preferred, we must take a look at how to present your offerings to your feathered guests. For a more detailed look at how birds prefer to feed, take a look at our website for a chart showing the actual feeding habits of many popular birds as observed by bird watchers across the country.

To attract the greatest number of birds to your back yard smorgasbord it is imperative to provide a variety of foods and feeding methods based on the birds normal feeding habits in the wild. It should be remembered though that birds are often highly adaptable and will often take advantage of food wherever and however it is presented.

• Ground - Provide an area where the birds can be fed by scattering the seed directly on the bare ground. This is preferred by such birds as Doves, Sparrows, Towhees and Juncos.
• Platform - This is nothing more than providing a feeding platform that is raised 2' to 4' off the ground. Platforms are preferred by such birds as Cardinals, Finches and Jays.
• Hanging feeders - These include all feeders that are normally hung from a cord or wire. These can also be mounted on a pole for convenience. This is a preferred feeding method of small birds like Titmice, Finches and Chickadees.
• Tree trunks - This entails actually attaching the feeder directly to a tree trunk or large branch and is the preferred method for offering Suet. It is the preferred dinning choice of such birds as Woodpeckers, Nuthatches and Wrens.
• Provide feeders in various locations and heights to attract the greatest number of birds.
• Provide ample room between feeders and scatter them around your yard in order to allow ample room for congregating birds and reduce competition. Spacing feeders out will also reduce the chance of spreading disease among your feathered guests. Make sure that at least some of your feeders are visible from a comfortable location in your house for your viewing pleasure.
• Provide an area that is open and allows the birds to feel safe from predators. Your feeding locations should be in an area that is open so the birds can see danger coming, yet should have cover nearby for them to seek safety and shelter from predators.
• Provide water year round. Birds depend on water the year round for drinking and bathing. An ideal birdbath will have an area that is approximately 1 1/2" to 2" deep and shallow areas where the bird can drink without getting their feet wet. Birdbaths can be made out of a wide range of materials as long as they provide shallow areas or you provide stones or branches so they can drink without getting their feet wet. Birdbaths should also be easy to clean. Birdbaths can be made even more attractive to birds by adding drippers or some form of gently moving water. Be sure to provide unfrozen water in the winter by installing heated birdbaths or a specially designed heater to keep the water from freezing.
• Provide protection from predators such as cats by installing a fence made or chicken wire or other suitable material around your feeders and keep your cats inside. Millions of birds are killed each year by cats allowed to roam free.
• If you feed near windows, provide protection for your friends from window crashes by installing bird netting over windows, painting silhouettes on the outside of the windows, cling-type decorations or other deterrents to exterior of the windows. Keep the feeders at least 3' away from the windows whenever possible. In the United States, it is estimated that 1 billion birds die from flying into windows each year as stated by the National Audubon Society.
• If you need to be away for any length of time it is a good idea to arrange for a friend or neighbor to keep your feeders full for you so that your feathered friends continue to come to your feeders without interruption.

Some don'ts to feeding

As with most things in life, there are some don'ts to feeding your feathered friends that you want to avoid.

• Don't feed any food that is moldy or deteriorated. Harmful bacteria can form on bird foods that can be toxic to birds. Any food that has started to mold in the feeders should be discarded immediately and the feeders cleaned.
• Don't store food for long periods and always store the food in closed containers away from moisture insects and rodents. I personally like to store food in recycled 1 gallon milk jugs. These can be sealed against moisture, bugs and rodents. The contents are easy to see and the seed is easy to dispense.
• Don't use feeders with sharp edges and corners that could injure a bird. Also avoid metal perches or cover metal perches with sandpaper or other graspable material to avoid the possibility of the birds feet freezing to the perch.
• Don't rely on bells around cats neck to warn birds. Studies have shown that these are highly ineffective and are more for our benefit than the birds.
• Do not feed any food containing chocolate to birds. Chocolate contains an ingredient "theobromine" that is toxic to birds, as well as dogs and cats.
• Don't allow feeders to remain dirty. Clean your feeders regularly with a 10% bleach solution and rinse well to limit the spread of disease among your feathered guests. Plastic and metal feeders that can be disassembled are best choices for this.
• Don't allow feed refuse and droppings to accumulate beneath feeders. Clean up refuse regularly (at least weekly). I personally find a blower/vacuum to be a quick and easy solution to this problem. The sweepings can be disposed of on the compost pile or trash.
• Don't put out large amounts of feed on the ground or feeding platforms during wet weather. Put out only as much as can be consumed by your guests with a few hours.
• Don't feed food that is damp or wet as this will mold quickly.
• Don't use any type of anti-freeze in the birds water or birdbath. This will prove to be toxic to birds and anything else that drinks the water.
• Don't allow your birdbaths to remain dirty or grow algae. Change the water daily and thoroughly clean the birdbath weekly with a 10% bleach solution and rinse thoroughly to prevent bacteria and algae. This will also prevent mosquitoes from hatching during warm weather.
• Don't be erratic with your feeding. For best results and the most consistent number and variety of birds to your yard, be consistent and keep your feeders filled. Consistency will help guarantee a steady procession of visitors to your yard.
• Don't hang your feeders by string, cord or rope. These are easily cut by squirrels that will send your feeders crashing to the ground. Replace these with wire, small cable or chain that squirrels can not easily bite through.
• Don't place your ground feeders near bushes or other cover where predators can hide.

Types of feeders

Ok, you've got it straight now what you want to offer your guests and you have a good idea about what to avoid and why. You've got your spots picked out to place feeders, but what kind to buy? For chart showing preferred type by various birds, visit our website.

• Ground - This is the easiest of feeders. All you need is a clear patch of ground, corner of a patio, etc. If you use the ground, it is advisable to clear all vegetation so that your guests will be able find everything you offer them and make clean-up easier. I have a ground feeding area that I removed the sod from and I cover this with simple landscaping fabric. This allows the area to drain well and cleaning is easy.
• Platform feeder - This can be as simple as a tray set on a low table or attached to a short post in the ground. The tray you use should have short sides to keep the offering from rolling off. Additionally, provision should be made for adequate drainage. I have found a piece of plywood about 18" square works well. I drill several 1/2" diameter holes in the board for drainage and then cover this with nylon screen wire stapled in place with copper staples. I then attach 1/4 round molding around the edges to help hold the screen down and protect the birds from the raw edges of the screen. The platform should be covered to protect the food from rain and snow and elevated from 2 to 4 feet above the ground. Allow at least 10 to 12 inches between the platform and the cover to allow ample room for the birds to feed comfortably.
• Bin feeders - These are the type typically sold as barns, houses, etc. They have a hopper to hold food and and a train upon which the food is dispensed. The type you choose is more a matter of personal taste and they can be quite decorative and elaborate. However from the birds point of view, I have found that the simpler the better. One thing any of them you choose should have is clear plastic windows so that you can keep tabs on the amount of food in the hopper. From a maintenance standpoint, choose models that are mad of plastic or ceramic, as these are the easiest to clean and the weather well without deteriorating like wood. These are often pole mounted for convenience and to help deter squirrels.
• Tube feeders - These come in a variety of types and styles and are a preferred type of feeder for Nyjer seed. Nyjer (Thistle) feeders have small holes in the sides from which the birds extract seed on at a time to reduce waste. Whenever possible, purchase tube feeders with well drained catch trays attached to catch falling seed and reduce waste. A large cover is available on some models which helps to protect food from the elements even further. Tube feeders are well suited for most small birds and by their nature are squirrel resistant. However, squirrels will chew up plastic feeders to get at the food inside if it is something they like. Lately, tube feeders have started being offered with a variety of metal guards around the feeder to deter squirrels and nuisance birds. Some have even gotten quite ornate. However this decoration is purely for aesthetic purposes and is there purely for the human element. As with bin feeders, choose models that are easily disassembled for cleaning.
• Thistle bags and baskets - These specially designed mesh bags and baskets that are designed to dispense Nyjer seed through the small mesh of the bag or basket. Small birds cling to the sides of the bag or basket and extract the seeds. It is my experience that these do tend to have more waste than tube feeders, but they are convenient and many are machine washable. There has been some concern lately about birds getting their feet hung in mesh bags however.
• Suet cages - These are cages that are specifically designed to hold Suet cakes and are typically attached to the side of a tree or they can be hung from a chain or wire. In recent years, Suet cages have started to be offered in quite artistic forms. This decorations are purely for our satisfaction and have no bearing on the birds choice of feeder. Suet cages can be easily constructed from hardware cloth available at most hardware stores and building centers if you are so inclined. In place of Cages, mesh bags of the type used for onions and vegetables can be used to hold Suet cakes. However, some concern has been raised in recent years about the possibility of birds to get their feet hung in the mesh. So if you choose to use mesh bags, some caution might be in order. If you wish to use your Suet feeder during warm weather, it is advisable to feed one of the various peanut butter cakes or specially formulated Suet cakes, as these are not as susceptible to heat and turning rancid.
• Hummingbird feeders - These are basically a jar to hold a sugar water solution to feed nectar feeding birds. To the jar is attached a dispenser, which is usually in the shape of a flower or other decoration to direct the bird to the food. Most often, multiple feeding stations are provided around the jar to allow several birds to feed at once. As bees and wasps are equally attracted to the sugar water, it is highly advisable to either buy them with bee guards or install them. Hummingbirds will not compete with bees and wasps. As Hummingbirds are highly territorial by nature, it is advisable to put up several feeders in multiple locations that are separated well apart (preferably out of eyesight of each other). Otherwise a male "Hummer" may chase off all others except his harem that enter his territory. Hummingbird feeders are the one type of feeder that you will use only during the warmer seasons and take down and store for the winter unless you live in the extreme south where some Hummers over winter. Hummingbird feeders, more than other types and because of the nature of the food must be cleaned every few days because bacteria grows rapidly in the sugar water environment and also because Hummers are highly susceptible to harmful bacteria. Hummingbird feeders are the exception where bright colors (usually reds and oranges) do matter. hummingbirds are attracted to bright colors, usually in the shades of reds, pinks, oranges and purples.

With the exception of Hummingbird feeders, avoid bright colors and extensive ornamentation, as birds tend to shy away from these and it will take longer for the birds to become accustomed to the feeders. Your best success will be with dull and muted colors. Whenever possible choose natural colors and avoid feeders that have moving (as in flags, windmills, etc.) or flashy attachments as these tend to scare off birds and make them wary.

Restrict your dinner guests

It is inevitable that anytime you set a banquet table that there will be uninvited gate crashers. Squirrels, rodents, predators and nuisance birds will all be wanting to invite themselves to the banquet table you have set for your feathered guests. While no solution is foolproof, here are several deterrents that work the majority of the time:

Cats

• Keep cats inside. Literally millions of birds are killed each year by cats that well meaning owners have let run free. The National Humane Society strongly advises that cats are healthier and safer for it and your feathered friends will appreciate it.
• Bells on cats has been proven to be largely ineffective. So don't rely on them to keep your invited guests safe.
• Install Fences around feeding areas to make it difficult for cats to sneak up on the birds and give the birds a chance to fly off when predators approach.
• Get informed about letting cats roam free and politely inform neighbors about the dangers of allowing cats to roam free and ask that they keep their cat indoors.
• Humanely trap free-roaming cats and discreetly take them to your local animal control or Humane Society.

Pet owners (cats or dogs) who truly care about their pets do not allow them to roam free.

Nuisance birds

• Many birds such as Starlings, Grackles and Pigeons are at best a nuisance and at worst can create such large flocks that they can (and often do) create health problems, both for humans and other wildlife. Most of the common nuisance birds are not native to the Northern Hemisphere and will take over feeding stations if allowed to.

• Feed food that these birds don't like. Safflower and Nyjer are two foods that these birds do not readily eat. If you find yourself overrun by these birds, try feeding only foods that are not palatable to these nuisance birds for a while. Hopefully they will move on of their own accord if they do not find another easy food source nearby.

• Purchase feeders with selective trap doors. These are feeders with a counterweighted trap door that closes over the food when one of these large birds lands on the perch, thereby not allowing access to the food. These feeders have an adjustable weight that can be set to allow only birds of a certain weight to feed.

Squirrels

• Location is one of the biggest factors in controlling these highly acrobatic and crafty critters at bay. Whenever possible, locate your feeders in the open at least 8 feet away from the nearest branch or limb and at least 5 to 6 feet above the ground.

• Install metal fencing around your feeding area that is at least 4 to 5 feet high and left somewhat loose so that it flops around under the squirrels weight if he tries to climb it.

• Use wire, cable or chain to suspend feeders.

• Use 2 to 4 inch plastic or metal pipe for poles to mount feeders on (squirrels can't get a grip on these).

• Locate feeders at least 8 feet away from brick or masonry structures (I had squirrels climbing the sides of my brick house and jumping onto a feeder pole located 5 feet
  away).

• Install squirrel baffler cones on poles and suspending cables (the larger in diameter the better - the small ones don't work very long before they figure out how to get around them).

• Provide squirrel food away from your feeders (while this can be turned into a lot of entertainment, it can be quite expensive).

• Purchase feeders specifically designed to foil squirrels. Some of the one that are effective to one degree or another are:

  • Dump platform - dumps the squirrel off when he climbs onto the platform to eat.

  • Trap door that closes over the food when they climb onto the perch to feed. This is the same one mentioned above to foil nuisance birds (although I have seen at least one crafty squirrel figure out how to get around it by hanging from the top and getting the food without getting onto the perch).

  • Spinners - These have perches that spin the squirrel off when they climb onto the perch to eat (these are fun to watch, but you must keep batteries in them or some must be near a power outlet)

• Invite some friends over for a dinner of squirrel and dumplings with biscuits (YUMMY)!

Create a bird-friendly environment

Good luck and good gardening!

Would you like to comment on this article or want to suggest future articles? Contact us at this link:

Take a moment to visit these terrific providers of products relating to this article.

 Plow & Hearth Home Accents

 Plow & Hearth Best Sellers

 Hearth Collection - Plow & Hearth