I wrote you on the Roterix network regarding this issue. Here in Vak-David, Quebec we have many Lakes. Due to the 'blue algae' appearing in some lakes, its due to the use of the commercial fertilizer. Also owners around the lake I live near, have lawns, and a retaining wall. Now you know my concern. Since I am also near the river that flows through this town, I am concerned which fertilizers to use on the vegetable garden.

Our Lake Golden is still wonderful to swim in. It gets checked 2 times a year, and reads #9; it came down from#12. All the lakes are connected by underground streams.

Thanks, Leonie

To get to your question Leonie, I want to applaud you for your concerns and your concerns are well founded. Over and over again we hear reports of our natural resources being contaminated as if they were nothing more than a repository of both that which we no longer wish to be around or our ignorance and short-sidedness coupled with a lack of understanding. Yet only now is mankind awakening to the fact that our resources are finite and our actions can have consequences long after our actions are done. It is only now that we are starting to realize that "if a little is good, more is better" is often the mentality that gets us into the kind of trouble that can have far-reaching consequences. This applies not only to our environment but also our personal lives. I know that you seek simple answers to this issue, however I do not believe that any short answer can suffice unless we have a working understanding of the "why". Once this is established, the "why" can serve as a guide to direct us in not only this, but in many of the challenges we face if we are to truly be "good stewards of the land". And this is our ultimate goal isn't it? We as co-inhabitants of this planet wish to pass on a legacy of good stewardship to our children and our children's children to enjoy.

The first thing I wish to address is the pollution issue you brought up. I'm not going to bore you with a lot of scientific stuff but I will tell you that contrary to what the news media would like you to believe (because they deal in emotions and "after the fact" more than facts that led to it as a practice), most of the time the problem is not WHAT so much as it is a matter of HOW, HOW MUCH and WHEN it is used. It must be realized that the environment has amazing recuperative powers when it comes to pollution, but we must give it a chance to do so. Right about now you're thinking - "all I want is a quick list of things to use. I don't want a long lecture". My response would have to be - "why would anyone who is so cognizant of their surroundings wish to know the what without at least having a working knowledge of the why"? It is in the why's that the true what's become evident. It is in the why's that we learn to recognize the real what's and learn to go beyond the what's that are evident to us. But a long thesis filled with a lot of technical terminology, studies and reports would be pretty dry and boring reading wouldn't it? So let's skip that unless it is needed for support to increase our understanding.

Extensive studies by many universities has proven time and again, that most fertilizers, used at the proper times, by the proper methods and in the proper amounts (whether chemical or "organic") do not cause the issues you have so rightly raised. Conversely, to much of any product (whether chemical or "organic"), applied at the wrong times or at the wrong rates can have extremely adverse effects. Here in our area, the biggest threat to our ground water is not from from chemicals per say, it is the over use of "organic fertilizer" - manure to be exact, and from high concentrations of septic systems. In both of these cases the offending product would be considered "organic". In some parts of our area the ground water, streams and impoundments are dangerously contaminated with manure by-products applied at excessively high rates and at the wrong times (i.e.; rainy weather). Additionally, sewage contamination has made some lakes unsafe, especially during the summer months when human concentrations are at their highest ( a "down-side" of living near a major tourist destination).

What I'm getting at in my long-winded way, is that the issue you described is not always as easy as changing a single product or products. It is, however a matter of the way we think and not be drawn into any one camp just because any one entity or groups of entities has taken it upon themselves to spread often misleading, biased and incomplete information. You will find that the most effective stewards of the land do not limit their focus to just a single focus such as the garden. But rather, true stewardship is a matter of a way of thinking, which extends beyond a single line of thought to the way we approach life itself and the world surrounding us starting with our personal lives. A person who genuinely is concerned about proper stewardship does not content themselves with the point of view of any one position, but rather realizes that each of us projects from a particular point of view and political agenda and therefore the real truth usually lies somewhere in the middle. This is the truth we seek here and that each of us should seek in all things. What do the facts support and what is the by-product of rejected conjecture and desire. In other words a "Good Steward".

If we are so inclined to be narrow and closed minded, it is easy to support any presupposition from either camp. However this would be in error, as both camps on this issue have a short sighted and narrow view of the world from which they view life. Neither side has complete answers and is dependent on the other in order to find balance and it is this need that is so often rejected by both camps and therefore find each wanting. The sometimes painful realities are that multiple studies have proven that "organic farming" can not feed the hungry mouths of the world and the results of diminished supply and high cost of such an endeavor would condemn many to starvation or at least extreme deprivation. But on the other hand, while dependence on chemicals to fill this need may indeed provide the bounty which is required to sustain us, at what cost. It is this overdependence on chemicals and modern techniques that has led to many of the pollution realities that we now face.

Now before either camp start spouting "overpopulation", "food hording", politics, etc. Let me say this, I will not get into the politics here as it is an area that has no end or resolution. Additionally, the cold hard facts are that global populations as a whole are actually shrinking, even in China who is often cited as being the worst offender. In fact the population shrinkage is so so great in some industrialized nations like the US that some experts are very concerned that within the next 50 years there will no longer be enough "bodies" to fill the job requirements. Fantasy and conjecture? Not at all! These are the cold, hard facts as supported by ever major study currently being done. And what of the assertion that food is being "horded for political gain? Here again, I will not get into the politics of this issue and no one has the answers as to other countries. But within the US, according to reports by the USDA, food stores are at the lowest levels in many years.

Now from reading the above discourse one might be led to believe that the Hillbilly dowses everything with a good old solution of chemicals and you'd be wrong in this belief. However, this does not mean that I am opposed to them either, for they to have their place. An educated standpoint for this or any endeavor is this - "apply only the amount of force necessary and in the amounts and methods needed to achieve the results desired". This is my philosophy towards gardening aids, health, medicine and life in general. If a big hammer is not needed, leave it in the toolbox. But don't be afraid to remove it if and when it is needed.

"All right, all right - enough of the philosophy lesson. That's not what I asked you! What do I use on my garden to help the plants but not harm the water and environment?" You are absolutely right, but the above long dissertation was intended (and I believe necessary) to set the foundation of understanding that will guide everyone through the steps of what, when, where and how. And it is extremely necessary in order to become a "well-rounded", and educated good steward of the land. It would be much easier to give you a bulleted list of do's and don'ts from one camp or the other and you would raise a good garden but never understand why. Ok, now enough and here we go.

1. Soil - The foundation of any stabilization program is the soil. From the standpoint of the environment, soil is the holding and delivery system for everything that is applied to it. The things that occur in healthy soil are amazing and could fill volumes if we tried to go into all of them. But suffice it to say that healthy soil holds, breaks down, stabilizes and dispenses. But it has its limits. If you wish the soil to do more you must give it the tools to do so. That brings us to #2.
2. COMPOST, COMPOST, COMPOST - Think of compost like a a combination, holding tank, super processor, supercharger, roto-tiller, pharmacy, warrior and traffic cop all wrapped up in one nice package. It holds large quantities of water and nutrients. Acts like a metering valve dispensing whatever is in it at a controlled rate. It modifies and changes what enters into it in an environmentally friendly form. Draws pollutants from the air and surrounding soil. Causes whatever enters to be used more efficiently and stops the uncontrolled migration of elements from it. What does all this mean? Compost helps bind whatever enters into the soil and changes it into a plant-ready form. Compost is additionally a complete fertilizer in and of itself since it is created from the previously processed components that create plants and plant-usable material in the first place. Compost also allows these essential components to be drawn out and concentrated in the form of "compost tea", which makes a "supercharged plant food" and is a pretty good fungicide because of its bacterial and enzyme activity. Bottom line - use as much compost as possible and use as much as you can produce or acquire. This is one additive that if you could use to much of, would be about as close to impossible as you could get.
3. Worm castings - These are basically the fecal remains from processing decomposing plant matter (worm poo) by a process called "Vermiculture". All usable material has been broken down leaving a highly concentrated mixture of nutrients without the salts, which are what causes burning. Worm castings are also extremely rich in bacteria and enzymes that break elements down into a plant-usable form. Use freely as you have available. You will most likely never be able to get enough of this to cause any problems.
4. Slow-Release organic fertilizers - These can be in many different formulations and element percentages. These are released slowly over a period of time, usually about three months. These fertilizers are organic elements that are mixed with a filler like clays that break down slowly and are pelletized. It is a viable option to use many different formulations based on the particular plant or crop. Some plants require higher nitrogen while others will do better with higher levels of potash or phosphorus. Having different formulations based on plant types is probably a good option for those just beginning. A few good rules of thumb regarding slow-release fertilizers are:
1. Leafy crops like lettuce and brassica's (cabbage, broccoli, brussel sprouts, kales, etc.) require higher nitrogen levels for best development of leaves. However, for crops that flower (broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), it is best to back off of the nitrogen when the flowers start to form.
2. Above ground crops such as tomatoes enjoy additional nitrogen early in order to develop a lush crop of leaves early. Then switch to a fertilizer lower in nitrogen but higher in potash and phosphorus when the plants are getting ready to bloom. Add additional calcium at fruit set for tomatoes in order to avoid "blossom end rot".
3. Root crops such as potatoes, turnips and beets should be treated like tomatoes, with the exception of carrots that do best with a balanced formulation.
4. Beans and legumes like peas and lentils need no additional nitrogen, as they produce their own from the air. Additional nitrogen can also have an adverse effect on the volume of fruit set on these crops. However some studies suggest that these crops benefit from an application of a "balanced" fertilizer early. Normally, all that is required is to "inoculate" the seed with a bacteria that aids the developing plant in producing its own nitrogen from the air,
5. Squash crops (including pumpkins) are heavy feeders that like a balanced blend at a steady rate over the entire life-cycle of the crop.
6. Herbs normally do best with a balanced blend at low rates as they rely on building essential oils within the plants for their desirable qualities. This production would be hampered by to much fertilizer and nitrogen in particular. Additionally, most herbs do not perform well from the standpoint of the essential oils from high applications of fertilizer.
7. Most flowering plants fall into two categories - flowering and foliage. Use higher nitrogen levels on foliage plants and a balanced blend on flowering plants.
5. Alternatives to fertilizer blends (custom blending) - As one becomes more familiar with the nutrient requirements of individual plants a good alternative is to use primarily one balanced blend of fertilizer and then boost or tailor it with specific amendments like blood meal, kelp meal, cottonseed meal, green sand, rock phosphate and potassium phosphate, calcium carbonate or calcium chloride (gypsum is a good source of calcium) among others. This will allow the gardener to customize the diet of various plants on a specific level, but will require more study and familiarization with your plants. Also be aware that many of these are slow to react and break down, so their application must be timed to deliver the product at the right time.
This usually means applying early so that the nutrients are available when needed.
6. Guides to fertilizer use - Fertilizers of all types and forms can be used effectively with no harm to the environment if a few guidelines are followed.
1. Soil testing is paramount. I know many who have read my works have grown used to my hammering this issue, but no matter how often I say it, the sad fact is that most gardeners do not test their soil. And if they do, it is only randomly at best. They are under the mistaken belief that they can "fly blind" and do well. It is only by diligently testing your soil and using this as your guide to what to apply and when that we avoid applying elements that will ultimately become ground-water pollutants. Soil testing should be carried out each spring and fall and at least once during the year.
It would be in the gardens best interest and ideal for each crop and the environment to test each planting area before each crop is planted, but this could prove impractical for most gardeners.
2. Watch the pH of your soil carefully. This ties back directly to soil testing and can not be stressed enough. The pH of the soil has a direct bearing on the elements that are available for the plants to use. A soil that is to acid or alkaline will "bind" many elements and make them unusable by the plants. These elements being unused, then become undesirable elements in our environment and often find their way into our groundwater and impoundments. Imbalances are corrected by adding lime to raise the pH of an acid soil of sulfur to lower alkaline soil.
3. Nitrogen and potassium are "water-soluble" and will follow water. So limit the amount of these two elements that are free in the soil at any one time. Try to limit the amount of these elements to the amount that can be consumed quickly by the plants. Excessive levels of nitrogen is a big culprit for excessive algae growth in our impoundments.
4. Pelletized, slow-release fertilizers accomplish this by regulating the release of nutrients over an extended period of time. The "down side" to slow release fertilizers is that the amount of usable fertilizer per pound is much less because of the filler. Additionally, the cost tends to be much higher, thus making it somewhat expensive to use and the cost is often comparable to traditional organic fertilizers in cost per pound of actual fertilizer. Additionally, pelletized slow-release fertilizer may be difficult to find locally in larger quantities like would be needed for a garden application.
5. Non-palletized, traditional fertilizers are normally very fast acting and only a small amount is needed to see fast results. These should be used in small quantities and more often in order to avoid leaching and volitalization.
6. If using traditional, non-slow-release fertilizer, use at 1/4 to 1/3 the recommended rate and feed more often. This limits the amount of free nitrogen and potash in the soil. This also limits the overall quantity of nutrients that can find their way into the ground water. The positive side of this type of fertilizer is that it is relatively inexpensive and easy to find. The down-side is that extreme care must be exercised to avoid creating a pollution issue.
7. Don't fertilize if rains are predicted within 48 to 72 hours and water the fertilizer into the soil well after application so that it is not sitting on the surface to wash away.
8. Whenever possible cultivate the fertilizer into the soil after application. If fertilizing the lawn run a slitter ("verticut") or aerator over it before application so the fertilizer will penetrate below the surface. Fertilizers left on the surface wash off more easily and may be eaten by birds and animals.
9. Natural fertilizers such as blood meal and composted manure are naturally "nitrogen-stabilized" so volatilization is not as much of a problem. However, even these should be worked into the soil and you should be careful to avoid "over-application" as even these can become a problem if used improperly.
10. Raw manure is high in volatile nitrogen that is released readily and quickly into the environment. Composting "burns off" most of the volatile nitrogen, leaving only stabilized nitrogen that is not as readily released to the environment.
11. Use a slow-release fertilizer for the "daily-feeding" of the plants and foliar feeding plant food when an added boost is needed. Most plants have the capacity to absorb in excess of 70% of their total nutrient intake through their leaves. When applied this way, most of the fertilizer is absorbed almost immediately, leaving little or none to be released into the environment. The most effective foliar feeding is done late in the day through the early morning hours.
12. Remember that natural or organic does not mean that a product is without risk. It does mean that it is much less likely to have adverse effects on the environment if misused. However, even organic forms of fertilizers should be treated as if they had a high potential for contamination.
7. Other factors that effect fertilizer run off and volatilization would include:
8. Over watering and excessive watering (that is watering to much and to often) - Lawns are especially bad, where automatic sprinklers are improperly set or are allowed to operate when not needed. Most plants and lawns require only an inch of water per week. So if it rains or due to rain, turn off the sprinklers. Or better yet, install moisture sensors. Set out rain gauges to measure how much water is being applied to the lawn.
9. Don't try to apply all of the water at once - Only apply water as fast as the ground will absorb it. This may require running the sprinklers for 30 minutes and then turning them off for 15 or 20 minutes and so on. But applying to much water to fast is a good way to insure run-off that will carry excess elements to water sources.
10. Planting lawns that require high rates of fertilization and water - Bluegrass and certain others require extremely high rates of fertilizer and water in order to look good. Unfortunately this trait also makes volatilization and run-off more likely. Develop a "Good Steward" mentality and don't try to keep up with the Jones's. You'll have a better lawn for less money in the long run and the environment won't pay the price for our "vanity".
11. Plant grass that is indigenous to the area - While these may not give the same look as the other "high-maintenance"' types, they generally do not have the high fertilizer and moisture requirements either. Additionally, native grasses are much more adaptive to your area, require less fertilizer and are not as susceptible to the diseases that plague "non-native" types. This means less of everything that could in turn harm the environment.
12. Never leave the ground exposed - Exposed ground is much more likely to have run-off and volatilization occur. Keep the ground covered with a thick mulch or even better, a cover crop with mulch. Not only will cover crops protect the soil and suppress weeds, they will also "use up" any remaining free fertilizer left in the soil and turn it into plant material that is turned back into the soil for use in an environmentally friendly way
13. Break up slopes with terraces and other obstacles - Slopes and hills are naturally slower to absorb than flat ground. So any elements put there are much more prone to washing away. Break up these with terraces and other obstacles that would slow down the normal flow of water and force more it to soak in.
14. Apathy and ignorance - Apathy and a lack of knowledge cause the vast majority of the environmental issues that plague us on this planet today. Far to many people do not know or understand the consequences that their actions inflict on the world around us. More alarmingly are the number of people who just don't care. In their desire to get what they want, when they want it, often they inflict great damage to the world around us. It is an unfortunate truth that there are and always shall be, those who care little about anyone other than themselves and what is theirs or that which they desire and nothing short of forced change will change their actions but probably not their beliefs. This is the same attitude that led to most of the extinctions that have occurred and it was the forced change of actions that have saved many from that same extinction. However, for the majority of the unintentional offenders, the issue is not one of apathy but rather a lack of knowledge, understanding and proper training. It is all to often due to the constant bantering of what's, without the why's that leads to a lack of understanding and therefore the subsequent unintentional offense. This is where the "good steward" can have a great impact on their environment. Probably, most people will be receptive to gaining insight if properly approached and presented. It is therefore the responsibility of each of us as fellow stewards of the land to gently lift others up and inform them of better ways of doing things in a respectful manner. If the long-term well being of this planet is to be our true goal, we do not have the luxury of keeping to ourselves or thinking that someone else will or should do it. It is the responsibility of each of us to help the other and in turn we help all of us as a whole. If we leave it to the government or someone else to do, we are in a manner of speaking saying that we do not care enough to put our convictions into action because to have this mentality is a good guarantee that nothing will be done.

As you can see, there is much that can and should be done before one makes a conscious decision to change products, tactics or camps. And changing products often is not required and becomes more a matter of personal taste and preference rather than desirable qualities. This is not exhaustive by any means, but should give you a good basis to start with. So whether Organic, chemical or a combination of both, fertilizers can be used safely and effectively without concern for adversely effecting the environment. The key is to only allow as much into our environment as can be used in a reasonably short amount of time and provide safeguards to insure that it remains there until its use. The issue is not one of type, form or method used so much as it is about the wise use of the type, form or method used. It is about wise, informed and conscientious stewardship of that in which you have been entrusted and the constant quest for knowledge that is not tainted by prejudice or political agenda. It is about the truth and daring to be different because it's the right thing to do and refusal to bow to the pressures of any one bias or political agenda.

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Happy gardening and "Have A Great Day"

the "Hillbilly Gardener"

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