On This Page Introduction Getting Started Fall Bulb Planting Chart

Ahh fall ••••••• A time of cooler weather, returning rains, beautiful fall foliage, fewer bugs, planting fall bulbs, fall gardens and perennials. There is a nip in the air and soon, Jack frost will be painting the foliage with the spell-bindingly intricate patterns of frost and then, all to soon, it's over! The garden produces no more this year and we are left with the memories of yet another year gone by and the flower garden ideas and plans we start making for the coming year. But wait! It's not over yet! Fall may signal the end of one growing season, but yet it beckons the beginning of yet another. This is when the frugal gardener plants the beginnings of next years bountiful blooms. Fall is the time for planting fall bulbs and all of those spring flowering bulbs.

 

As every seasoned frugal gardener knows, fall is the supreme planting time for most perennials that will delight us next year and let's not forget those spring flowering bulbs. Fall bulbs that will emerge next spring (often while the snow is still on the ground) to rouse us from our winter doldrums and give us cause for hope that spring will not be long in coming. Few things can be easier planting fall bulbs and so many of them can also serve "double-duty" as that mid-winter tonic to us gardeners by blooming in the dead of winter through "forcing". This is the practice of fooling spring flowering bulbs to bloom at times they normally would not and is relatively easy for the savvy frugal gardener and cheaper than buying pre-conditioned bulbs.

Most fall bulbs have few natural pests, and the ones that are can normally be easily controlled. Most require little more than rich, well-drained soil, proper planting depth and some mulch. And don't fault the bulbs for leaving some foliage behind after the blooms all fade for without it future blooms could not exist. Think of the foliage as your opportunity to express your creativity in hiding or detracting from it by creative planting and the bulbs will reward you for it. So plant some fall bulbs this year and let them work their magic on your ailing winter soul. Just remember to save a few for forcing. It requires little and it can be so much fun and so rewarding. Here's how to get started with planting fall bulbs:

1. Choose a location with the appropriate sun/shade exposure and the planting depth of the soil is deep (generally a foot or more) and relatively high in fertility. See the "Soil" column in the chart below for specific requirements.

2. Choose a location that is well drained. Soil that is to wet or drains poorly will cause most bulbs to rot. If such a location does not exist, consider planting in large planters. This also provides the opportunity to move the planter elsewhere when the bulbs have ended their bloom and only foliage remains.

3. Choose top quality bulbs of proper maturity. Choose bulbs that are:

   1. Most bulbs should be from 3-5 years old to be mature enough to produce blooms. Many of the bargain bulbs offered in chain stores are less than the required age for consistent blooming.

   2. Choose bulbs that are firm, without cuts, bruises and/or other blemishes. Bulbs of a species generally should all be of uniform size. Varying sizes will often indicate bulbs of varying ages and may contain many immature bulbs.

   3. Bulbs with outer wrappers (such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, etc.) should have the majority of their wrappers still intact. Lack of outer wrappers may indicate improper handling.

   4. Look for indications of mold and/or other fungus growth. This is a sure indication of improper handling and infection. Look for dark colored or soft circular areas as well. Often these will have a sunken appearance. Soft and/or black or unusually dark areas around the top of the bulb or root area are also indicators of possible disease. Avoid these bulbs.

   5. Whenever possible, choose bulbs that are certified free of disease. Many fungal diseases have appeared in recent years that essentially have no cure that will damage or destroy your bulbs. If you bring one of these diseases into your garden, it could do extreme damage by spreading throughout your garden.

4. Choose from multiples of 3, 7 or 11 bulbs when planting. These numbers have shown to provide the most pleasing visual appearance. Professionals will nearly always plant in multiples of 3, 7 or 11 unless they are planting "in mass" because of this visual fact.

5. Choose flowers of a single color in most cases for groupings of bulbs. A single mass of a single color has much more impact than a mass of multiple colors.

6. For most bulbs, mix large quantities of compost or other organic material into the soil to a depth of 12 or more inches prior to planting.

7. Mix slow-release bulb food or bone meal into the bottom of the planting hole at planting time. Follow the manufacturers recommendations and do not overfeed your bulbs. This could lead to a condition that could cause your bulbs to rot or cause an excess of foliage at the expense of blooms.

8. Never plant in straight rows. This is not natural and is visually unappealing. Most bulbs look more appealing when planted in groupings.

9. If squirrels, chipmunks, ground squirrels, voles or other rodents are high in your area or have been a problem in the past, plant your bulbs in fully enclosed bulb cages to keep the rodents from digging up and eating your bulbs. Moles generally do not eat bulbs, but will push the bulbs out of the ground in search of worms, subterranean insects and larva that may pose a threat to your bulbs. Additionally, voles, chipmunks and other ground rodents will often use the mole tunnels to gain access to your bulbs away from the watchful eyes of predators.

10. Have wheat or oat straw, pine straw or other mulch ready to cover your planting area as soon as the bulbs are planted. This conserves moisture and keeps the ground from freezing solid to quickly, thereby allowing the roots more time to develop.

11. Water your bulbs thoroughly after planting.

12. DO NOT FORGET TO MARK THE LOCATION AND TYPE OF BULBS! Most gardeners will have a tendency to forget what is planted where after a long winter and many are the bulbs that have been inadvertently dug up in the spring. It is very aggravating to accidentally dig up your bulbs in the spring because you forgot they were there.

13. Consider now how you want to disguise the foliage next spring after the bulbs finish blooming. You may wish to hide the foliage among other plants that would do best planted now. Don't wait until spring gets here and you are left scrambling to come up with an idea to hide the unattractive foliage. Never cut the foliage off. Allow it to mature and die back naturally. As stated earlier, large planters are a great way to deal with this problem. After the bulbs are finished blooming, simply move the planter to a secluded location with suitable exposure and continue to care for them with consistent watering and feeding as needed.

the "Hillbilly Gardener"

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Fall Bulb Planting Chart

NOTE - This is a partial list of some of the most popular fall bulbs. Refer to the suppliers recommendations for a specific variety

or those not listed here.

NOTE - The common names listed are some of the most common. The same plant may be known by other names.

NOTE - Hardiness zones, spacing, blooming season and height are averages. Differences may exist for specific varieties.

Consult the supplier for variety-specific details.

Common Name	Latin Name	Hardiness Zone	Soil	Sun/ Shade	Spacing (inches)	Depth (inches)	Blooming Season	Height (inches)	Notes
Amaryllis	Amaryllis	9 - 11	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	PS	12	4 - 6	Summer to fall	18 - 36	In cold areas, plant in pots with the tip of bulb level with soil
Source
Baboon flower	Babiana	9 - 11	Well-drained/ moist	FS	6	6	Spring	8 - 12	North of Zone 9, plant in spring, lift in fall
Begonia	Begonia	10 - 11	Well-drained/ moist	MS PS LS	12 - 15	1 - 2	Summer to late fall	8 - 18	Will rot easily if planted too deep
Source
Bluebell	Hyacinthoides	4 - 9	Well-drained/ fertile	FS MS PS	4	3 - 4	Spring	8 - 20	Excellent for borders, rock gardens and naturalizing
Source
Cape cowslip	Lachenalia	9 - 10	Well-drained/ moist/ sandy	FS MS PS	2	1	Spring	6 - 12	North of Zone 9, plant in spring, lift in fall
Christmas rose/ hellebor	Helleborus	4 - 8	Well Drained Neutral-alkaline	PS LS	18	1 - 2	Spring	12	Hardy, but requires shelter from strong, cold winds
Source
Cranesbill	Geranium	4 - 9	Well-drained/ fertile	FS MS PS	4	4	Spring to early summer	8 - 12	Hardy; suitable for rock gardens, borders, and ground cover
Source
Crocus	Crocus	3 - 8	Well-drained/ moist/fertile	FS MS	4	3	Early spring	5	Naturalizes well in grass
Source
Daffodil	Narcissus	3 - 10	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	FS MS	6	6	Early spring	14 - 24	Plant under shrubs or in a border
Source
Dahlia	Dahlia	9 - 11	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	FS	12	6 - 8	Summer to fall	12 - 72	When planting, cover only 3 inches and gradually fill in with soil
Source
(Exposure is for bulbs planted outdoors) Sun/Shade Key - FS= Full Sun[1] (sun 10-12 hrs./day)    MS = Mostly Sun[2] (sun 8-10 hrs./day)    PS - Partial Shade[3] (sun 6-8 hr,/day)    LS = Light Shade[4] (Sun occurring less than 6 hr./day)    HS = Heavy Shade [5] (No sun)   [1} = Sun occurs from morning on> [2] = shade occurring during the afternoon to evening. [3] = Sun occurring only during the morning and late evening hours only [4] = Amy sun occurs only in the morning. Light remains bright. [5] = No sunlight ever. Can read small print comfortably only for a few hours during the middle of the day.
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Common Name	Latin Name	Hardiness Zone	Soil	Sun/ Shade	Spacing (inches)	Depth (inches)	Blooming Season	Height (inches)	Notes
Desert candle/ foxtail lily	Eremurus	5 - 9	Well-drained/ sandy/ fertile	FS	24	6	Spring	36 - 84	Provide winter mulch in colder zones
Source
Dog's-tooth violet/ trout lily	Erythronium	3 - 9	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	PS LS	4 - 6	3	Spring	6 - 24	A good choice for spring ground cover under deciduous shrubs
Source
Elephant's ears/ pigsqueak	Bergenia	3 - 8	Well-drained/ moist	PS LS	12 - 24	1 - 2	Late spring	8 - 18	Use in woodland gardens or as a ground cover; mulch in fall
Source
Fritillary	Fritillaria	3 - 9	Well-drained/ sandy	FS MS	3	3	Midspring	6 - 30	Different species can be planted in rock gardens, woodland gardens, or borders
Source
Fumewort	Corydalis solida	5 - 7	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	PS LS	4 - 5	3	Spring	6 - 12	Great for wooded areas; naturalizes easily
Source
Glory of the snow	Chionodoxa	3 - 9	Well-drained/ moist	FS MS LS	3	3	Spring	4 - 10	Self-sows easily; plant in rock gardens, raised beds, or under shrubs
Source
Grape hyacinth	Muscari	4 - 10	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	FS MS LS	3 - 4	2 - 3	Late winter to spring	6 - 12	Use as a border plant or in wildflower and rock gardens; self-sows easily
Source
Iris, bearded	Iris	3 - 9	Well-drained/	FS	4	4	Early spring to early summer	3 - 48	Naturalizes well; good cut flower
Source
Iris, reticulata/ Dwarf Iris	Iris	5 - 8	Well-drained/ fertile	FS MS	2 - 4	4	Late winter to early spring	2 - 6	An excellent choice for rock gardens
Source
"Iris, Siberian"	Iris	4 - 9	Well-drained/	FS MS PS	4	4	Early spring to midsummer	18 - 48	An excellent cut flower
Source
(Exposure is for bulbs planted outdoors) Sun/Shade Key - FS= Full Sun[1] (sun 10-12 hrs./day)    MS = Mostly Sun[2] (sun 8-10 hrs./day)    PS - Partial Shade[3] (sun 6-8 hr,/day)    LS = Light Shade[4] (Sun occurring less than 6 hr./day)    HS = Heavy Shade [5] (No sun)   [1} = Sun occurs from morning on> [2] = shade occurring during the afternoon to evening. [3] = Sun occurring only during the morning and late evening hours only [4] = Amy sun occurs only in the morning. Light remains bright. [5] = No sunlight ever. Can read small print comfortably only for a few hours during the middle of the day.
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Common Name	Latin Name	Hardiness Zone	Soil	Sun/ Shade	Spacing (inches)	Depth (inches)	Blooming Season	Height (inches)	Notes
Lords and ladies	Arum	6 - 9	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	PS LS	12	4 - 5	Midspring to midsummer	6 - 18	Needs full sun to flower well
Source
Ornamental onion	Allium	3 - 10	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	FS	12	3 - 4	Late spring to early summer	6 - 60	Usually pest-free; a great cut flower
Source
Quamash	Camassia	3 - 10	Well-drained/ moist	FS MS	6 - 9	4	Spring	12 - 30	Naturalizes well near streams or ponds
Source
Shamrock/ sorrel	Oxalis	5 - 10	Well-drained/	FS MS	4 - 6	2	Summer	2 - 12	Great as a woodland ground cover
Source
Siberian quill/spring squill	Scilla siberica	5 - 8	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	FS MS	8 - 10	3 - 4	Late winter to spring	6 - 28	Good for indoor forcing
Source
Snowdrop	Galanthus	3 - 9	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	FS MS	3	3	Spring	6 - 12	Best when clustered and planted in an area that will not dry out in summer
Source
Snowflake	Leucojum	5 - 9	Well-drained/ moist/ sandy	FS MS	4	4	Spring	6 - 18	Naturalizes well
Source
Spring starflower	Ipheion uniflorum	6 - 9	Well-drained/ loam	FS MS	3 - 6	3	Spring	4 - 6	Fragrant; naturalizes easily
Source
Star of Bethlehem	Ornithogalum	5 - 10	Well-drained/ moist	FS MS	2 - 5	4	Spring to summer	6 - 24	North of Zone 5, plant in spring, lift in fall. Ornithogalum umbellatum is an extremely invasive non-native species that is difficult to eradicate.
Source
Striped squill	Puschkinia scilloides	3 - 9	Well-drained/	FS MS	6	3	Spring	4 - 6	Naturalizes easily; makes an attractive edging
(Exposure is for bulbs planted outdoors) Sun/Shade Key - FS= Full Sun[1] (sun 10-12 hrs./day)    MS = Mostly Sun[2] (sun 8-10 hrs./day)    PS - Partial Shade[3] (sun 6-8 hr,/day)    LS = Light Shade[4] (Sun occurring less than 6 hr./day)    HS = Heavy Shade [5] (No sun)   [1} = Sun occurs from morning on> [2] = shade occurring during the afternoon to evening. [3] = Sun occurring only during the morning and late evening hours only [4] = Amy sun occurs only in the morning. Light remains bright. [5] = No sunlight ever. Can read small print comfortably only for a few hours during the middle of the day.
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Common Name	Latin Name	Hardiness Zone	Soil	Sun/ Shade	Spacing (inches)	Depth (inches)	Blooming Season	Height (inches)	Notes
Surprise Lily	Lycoris squamigera	5 - 9	Well-drained/ fertile	FS	6	5-6	Late Summer	18-36	Sends up leaves in spring but doesn't flower until later in summer.
"Tulip, Darwin hybrid"	Tulipa	4 - 8	Well-drained/ fertile	FS	6	6	Midspring	30	Excellent for borders, rock gardens, and naturalizing
Source
"Tulip, double late"	Tulipa	4 - 8	Well-drained/ fertile	FS	6	6	Midspring	18 - 20	Excellent for borders, rock gardens, and naturalizing
Source
"Tulip, fringed"	Tulipa	4 - 8	Well-drained/ fertile	FS	6	6	Late spring	24	Excellent for borders, rock gardens, and naturalizing
Source
Windflower	Anemone	3 - 9	Well-drained/ moist	FS MS	3 - 6	2	Early summer	3 - 18	Plant beneath spring-flowering shrubs and allow to naturalize
Source
Winter aconite	Eranthis	4 - 9	Well-drained/ moist/ fertile	FS MS	3	2 - 3	Late winter to spring	2 - 4	Self-sows and naturalizes easily
Source
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(Exposure is for bulbs planted outdoors) Sun/Shade Key - FS= Full Sun[1] (sun 10-12 hrs./day)    MS = Mostly Sun[2] (sun 8-10 hrs./day)    PS - Partial Shade[3] (sun 6-8 hr,/day)    LS = Light Shade[4] (Sun occurring less than 6 hr./day)    HS = Heavy Shade [5] (No sun)   [1} = Sun occurs from morning on> [2] = shade occurring during the afternoon to evening. [3] = Sun occurring only during the morning and late evening hours only [4] = Amy sun occurs only in the morning. Light remains bright. [5] = No sunlight ever. Can read small print comfortably only for a few hours during the middle of the day.

 

the "Hillbilly Gardener"

 

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