Bird Control

Keep Birds At Bay With Flash And Motion

Have you had beans or other crops sprouting and went out one morning to find many plants cut off with their tops laying near the stem? Your first thought might be cutworms, but it could just as likely be birds. Starlings, Grackles and a few others have a nasty habit of cutting off many seedlings as they emerge. They seem to be particularly fond of beans. They don't eat them. They simply cut them off and leave the tops lie. One theory is that the birds mistake the new sprouts for bugs about to take flight. In any case, a flock of Starlings can destroy a crop in a day if steps are not taken to ward them off. The flashy "scarecrows" described below also work well at discouraging squirrels.

Composting

Handy Helpers For The Compost Bin

Two trash cans (one inverted and set atop the other) near the compost pile can hold a spare digging fork and/or "D" handle shovel for quickly working in the compost. Look for these spare tools at flea markets and yard sales to save money.

Containers

Storing Buckets And Watering Cans

Choose a location near water spigots, utility areas, compost bins, etc. that are handy, but out of the way. Pre-punch holes in the ground using a large rod, old wooden handle (I save all of my broken handles for many handy projects), etc. and drive lengths of 3/4" plastic pipe approximately 3 to 4 feet long, about 1 foot into the ground. After inserting the pipe, place a plastic pipe cap on each pipe (no need to glue) and invert your buckets and watering cans on the posts to keep the handy, keep them from using up room in your garage or shed and prevent them blowing away in a storm.

Definitions

Shade Definitions

THERE ARE AS many different interpretations of shade types as there are books written about shade. For the sake of consistency, we are using shade definitions from the American Horticultural Society in its book Gardening in Shade (DK Publishing, 1999).

LIGHT

Light shade is a permanent shade cast by the shadow of a building, wall, hedge, or tree on a site otherwise exposed to the sky and open to light. It offers the most opportunity for blooming plants that otherwise like the sun. Hosta

PARTIAL

After light shade, partial shade provides the next best opportunity for flowers in shade. Under these conditions, an area receives up to six hours of direct sun, with four or more of those hours being in the morning, and the rest of the day being in shadow. It is the most beneficial for a variety of plants. (Note that if four or more of the six hours of sun are in the afternoon, it is considered to be full sun.)

DAPPLED OR FILTERED

Dappled, or filtered, shade is created by sunlight filtering through the canopy of open tree branches or through latticework structures, with the pattern of light shifting all day. This is probably the most common shade in suburban backyards and is also the most common woodland shade-garden environment.

DEEP OR FULL

Deep, or full, shade is the dense kind of shade found under evergreens or closely spaced shrubs and trees that do not allow any direct light to penetrate. This is the most cooling kind of shade but is also the most difficult; it takes effort to find plants that will bloom here. But it also can be the most interesting, because the plants suited to it tend to have the best leaf structure.

Disease Prevention

Treatments For Damping Off Disease

Chamomile Spray

Chamomile tea is an excellent preventative for damping-off. Use on seed starting soil, seedlings and in any humid planting area. Chamomile is a concentrated source of calcium, potash and sulfur. The sulfur is a fungus fighter. This can also be used as a seed soak prior to planting.

To make: Pour 2 cups boiling water over 1/4 cup chamomile blossoms. Let steep until cool and strain into a spray bottle. Use as needed. This keeps for about a week before going rancid. Spray to prevent damping off and anytime you see any fuzzy white growth on the soil. Chamomile blossoms can be purchased at health food stores and usually grocery stores.

Seaweed Spray

A seaweed spray which is so rich in nutrients and everything that seedlings require can also be used to prevent damp-off. Make a strong mixture adding 2/3 cup of kelp concentrate to 1 gallon of water, spray.

Other Treatments

• A fine layer of milled sphagnum moss on top of the sterile planting medium will also prevent damping off.

• Sprinkling a fine layer of cinnamon powder on your starting medium also helps.

• Horsetail Tea (Equisetum arvense)

The common horsetail plant, which is very invasive, is rich in silicon and helps plants to resist fungal diseases via increasing their light absorbing capabilities. Horsetail is one of the ingredients in Golden Harvest Fertilizer. You can use horsetail tea on seedlings and plants in closed environments too! To make: In a glass or stainless steel pot, mix 1/8 cup of dried leaves in 1 gallon of unchlorinated water. Bring to a boil, then let simmer for at least 1/2 hr. Cool and strain. Store extra concentrate in a glass container. Will keep for a month. Dilute this mix, adding 5- parts of unchlorinated water to one part concentrate. Spray plants once every 1-2 weeks Also spray directly on your staring medium.

Fertilizers And Growth Aids

Homemade Root-Stimulating Hormone

Place one handful of willow branch tips cut into 4 - 6 inch pieces into a bucket and cover with approximately 1 gallon of water. let stand for 3 to 4 days. Remove willow branches and use 1/2 cup around each plant. Apply every 5 to 10 days until new growth appears.

Handy Helpers

Handy Coat Holder Pole

Spring and fall are two seasons of high activity for gardeners. But, as is normal for these seasons, you start out in a jacket but soon start dressing down as the weather and your activity level rises. Your jacket gets hung from whatever is handy and before you know it, it's in the dirt. You're already hauling tools to where you're working. Why not add this handy little helper to your arsenal and always have your jacket handy and clean.

Using whatever wood you have handy that is lightweight and about 4 to 5 feet long, sharpen one end to go into the ground. This can be a fancy, smooth point if you like or a simple "hatchet point".

Attach an inexpensive coat hook to the pole near the top. Feel free to paint or decorate the pole to match your tastes if you like.

Finished coat hook pole. Always handy.

Tame That Twine

Twine is used by virtually all gardeners for virtually everything. It has become an invaluable part of every gardeners tool box. We use it to tie up tomatoes, vines and straying flower stalks. Bags of fertilizer get tied by twine, tools hung by twine and roses trained by twine. A need arises and we trustingly reach into our bucket for our trusty twine. But this time, we reach into our bucket and pull out something more resembling the remnants of a discarded birds nest than a ball of twine. We poke, pull, twist and weave the tangled mess, cutting off short pieces at a time until out of frustration, we throw the whole mess away and look for another. Wouldn't it be nice if there was a way to have twine ready to use and tangle free at a moments notice any time we needed it. Well, the following dispenser may not be 100% foolproof all of the time, but it's pretty dare close. The following twine dispenser uses a 32oz Kraft Miracle Whip® plastic jar, which is sized for two of the rolls of twine I buy almost as if it had been designed for this purpose. Any wide-mouth jar that will fit two rolls of twine without letting them flop around much will probably work as well. I use predominately biodegradable jute twine (dyed green when I can find it) in the garden that can go directly into the compost.
 

After a thorough cleaning, start by drilling a 5/16 inch hole in the center of the lid. To make drilling without catching and possibly cracking the lid or injuring your hand, start out with a small drill bit and work your way up through several sizes until you reach 5/16 inch.	After unwrapping two balls of twine, locate both the inner and outer ends of the twine. Next, tie the inner end of one ball to the outer end of the second ball of twine using a square knot. This is one of two important steps in order to make the balls feed properly.	After pulling the knot tight, trim the ends no longer than 1/4 inch from the knot, but do not trim the excess next to the knot or it make come untied.	Now you're ready to load your twine into your dispenser. This is critical to making it work. Stack your balls of twine on top of each other so that the ball with the free end coming from the center is on top. This ball is placed on top of the second ball on the same side where the end is coming out of the center.
Envision it this way, as the twine is pulled from the center out of the first ball of twine. As it gets to the outside end of the first ball of twine, it will start pulling the twine from the inside out of the second ball. The string feeds inside out, inside out.	Next insert the free end of the twine (this will be coming from the center of the top ball of twine) through the hole in the lid.	The finished twine dispenser ready to go into my garden tool bucket.	The one thing I might add to this dispenser is a small spring clip to hold the string from being accidentally pulled out.   I'm also working on a way to add a belt clip. When finished, I'll pass these on to you.

Insect Repellants

Mosquitoes and Chiggers

Mosquitoes and chiggers have plagued everyone who ventures outdoors for thousands of years and for just as many years, humans have sought ways to make themselves "bulletproof" to these little buggers. Or at least avoid their irritatingly itchy bite. Through much trial, on a number of persons, here are my "Top Ten" recommendations (generally in order of effectiveness):

1. Consuming large amounts of garlic daily (generally at least one to two cloves or more). Works even better if combined with highly spicy foods.

2. One to two B1 tablets daily.

3. Insect repellents containing at least 40% Deet (This one I use only in extreme cases due to potential toxicity and rarely on children)

4. Listerine moth wash (has the added benefit of being antiseptic)

5. "Skin So Soft" body lotion. Smells "girly", but it beats scratching from the bites (sorry guys).

6. Vick's Vapo-Rub (the cheaper brands don't seem to work nearly as well)

7. Oil of spearmint, wintergreen, peppermint or pennyroyal.

8. Rubbing your body and clothes with a dryer sheet (Bounce seems to work the best).

9. Avoid either white or black clothes.

10. Avoiding hot drinks or activities that cause heavy breathing during the most active times for mosquitoes (usually late evening). Mosquitoes are attracted to CO2 from your breath.

Many factors, including weather, physical activity and your own physical characteristics that day play a big role in the activity level of mosquitoes and how aggressive they are. What works today, may not be as effective tomorrow. So keep and try a variety of methods and let the little "buggers" tell you which one (or combination) will work best today.

Measuring

How to Easily Estimate Distances

(A Bona Fide "Rule of Thumb")

Distance Estimate art

Your arm is about ten times longer than the distance between your eyes. That fact, together with a bit of applied trigonometry, can be used to estimate the distance between you and any object of approximately known size.

Imagine, for example, that you're standing on the side of a hill, trying to decide how far it is to the top of a low hill on the other side of the valley. Just below the hilltop is a barn, which you feel reasonably sure is about 100 feet wide on the side facing you.

Hold one arm straight out in front of you, elbow straight, thumb pointing up. Close one eye, and align one edge of your thumb with one edge of the barn. Without moving your head or arm, switch eyes, now sighting with the eye that was closed and closing the other. Your thumb will appear to jump sideways as a result of the change in perspective.

How far did it move? (Be sure to sight the same edge of your thumb when you switch eyes.) Let's say it jumped about five times the width of the barn, or about 500 feet. Now multiply that figure by the handy constant 10 (the ratio of the length of your arm to the distance between your eyes), and you get the distance between you and the barn -- 5,000 feet, or about one mile. The accompanying diagram should make the whole process clear.

With a little practice, you'll find that you can perform a quick thumb-jump estimate in just a few seconds, and the result will usually be more accurate than an out-and-out guess. At a minimum, it will provide some assurance that the figure is in the ballpark -- which, in many cases, is as close as you need to get.

- courtesy of Jon Vara, Marshfield, Vermont

Hand Thermometer for Outdoor Cooking

Hold your palm close to where the food will be cooking: over the coals or in front of a reflector oven. Count "one-and-one, two-and-two," and so on (each pair is roughly equivalent to one second), for as many seconds as you can hold your hand still.

Seconds Counted Heat Temperature

6-8 Slow 250°-350°F

4-5 Moderate 350°-400°F

2-3 Hot 400°-450°F

1 or less Very Hot 450°-500°F

Outdoor Entertaining

Fire Pit On A Budget

Like the idea of having an outdoor fire pit for entertaining but don't like the expense? Do you or a neighbor have old concrete sidewalk or drive to dispose of? Create a cozy fire pit and find a home for that used concrete at the same time with this recycling idea.

This fire pit, made from a recycled sidewalk, provides hours of outdoor enjoyment.

Outdoor Furniture

Your wicker wobbles

Try misting it with water. The wicker will swell and then tighten up, taking away the wiggles.

Plant Marking

Reuse Plant Markers

With the heightened interest in saving oil, recycling, saving the planet and of course saving cash, why not save a little bit of everything by recycling and reusing those plant markers you get in all those plants you buy? All it takes is soap, water, paint for plastics and some elbow grease. Even those preprinted markers are prime candidates for recycling.

Planting

Make Quick Work Of Planting

So you have a lot of plants to get in the ground. Make quick work of planting by using a bulb planter to dig all of those holes. This works especially well for all of those "six-packs" and 4 inch pots you buy.
Got a lot of 1 gallon plants to put in the ground? Or maybe large plants you are moving? Try using a "clam-shell" post hole digger. The hole it digs is nearly the same size as a 1 gallon nursery pot and is much more "back-friendly" than a shovel.

Projects

Don't Procrastinate Landscape Or Garden Project Support Items

Planning a new project in the landscape or garden? Never start a new project until you consider and install the support items needed first, or at least have them ready for installation when needed. Let's face it, we've all done it. We start a project without having the necessary things we'll need later, thinking we'll either get them later, install them later, or build them later and you get busy with other things. Guess what? Later never comes and then you need it. Let's look at some examples:

1. Planning a new bed or addition? It will need watering. Make sure you have soaker hoses or other watering means in hand BEFORE you start. It is extremely difficult to snake soaker hoses through mature plants when you need the water and have forgotten to purchase and install the hoses before hand.

2. Starting new plants from seed or cuttings? In most cases, you will need some form of nursery bed for maturing your plants before they are placed in their permanent homes. Build your nursery bed BEFORE you start your plants. That way it will be ready as soon as you need it.

3. Planting vining plants that will need a trellis or other support? Install the trellis immediately after or before planting. Never plant and then think you will get the support later. Later never comes and after the plant is large and actively growing is no time to be installing a trellis. Install the trellis BEFORE you plant. Then it is in place when you need it.

4. You're preparing new hanging baskets to enhance your patio. You have the plants and baskets, but know it will be a little while before the plants are ready to hang. You plant anyway, knowing you do not have the hangers yet. Wrong! Install the hangers BEFORE you plant the first plants. That way they'll be there when the baskets are ready.

5. You plan on planting many planters with perennial plants that will come back year after year. You have the containers, soil and plants already. So why worry about winter protection now in the middle of spring? Wrong, wrong, wrong! Your summer is going to see you busy and "hip deep in alligators"! Before you know it, summer is over and you'll be scratching around for some way to overwinter your potted plants. The time to consider winter protection is BEFORE you plant your first container. That way, let the first frosts come - you're ready.

Get the idea? Many garden projects go beyond the "pretty part" of the project and we humans are a species of "putter offer's". We put off most things, thinking we will get to them later. But later never comes until we need it.

Raised Beds

Basic Raised Bed

The following is for a basic raised bed that is 3 feet x 3 feet square. This is a great size for herbs or other small plantings, specimen plantings or accents.

Materials Needed:

• 1 - 2x12, twelve feet long. This should be pressure treated, heartwood cedar or cypress.

• 1 piece of landscape fabric 3 feet wide x 3 feet long (optional)

• 1 piece of aluminum screen wire 3 feet wide x 3 feet long (optional)

• 12 galvanized lag screws 3/8 inch diameter x 6 inches long

• 12 - 3/8 flat washers

Tools needed:

• Tape measure

• Square

• Saw (hand or electric)

• Electric drill

• 3/8 inch ratchet w/9/16 inch socket

• 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch drill bits

• Oil (to oil screws before assembly)

Assembly:

• Measure board into 4 - 3 foot lengths and cut.
  Caution: If using a power saw use extreme caution and always were safety glasses and hearing protection. If using pressure treated lumber, always were a dust mask while cutting or sanding.

• On one end of each board measure back a distance equal to the thickness of the lumber and draw a line.

• Measure in approximately 1 1/2 inch from each side and centered in the area marked and mark for the two outside screws. Do the same for the center hole.

• Drill a 3/8 inch hole at each of your marks and then mark through this hole to the unmarked end of each board.

• Now drill a 1/4 inch hole through the marks on each end of the boards (three holes in each end that will line up with the side holes of the end of one of the boards)

• Now place a flat washer and some oil on each screw to be installed and place some oil into its corresponding hole and screw into the small hole until tight. [ The result will be a square frame where each board will have screws through the side of one end only and into the end grain of a corresponding board. Each corner will have one board overlapping the end of the next for a square frame ].

• With all four corners joined, measure from corner to corner and adjust until the two distances are equal (square).

Now place the frame where it is to be used and mark around the frame. Set the frame aside and remove all vegetation from the area and place into your compost pile. Set the frame in place and fill with a planting mix appropriate to what you plan on growing.

To make the bed rodent resistant or to contain invasive roots, add first the landscape fabric then the screen wire before setting the bed in place and filling.

Root Containing Raised Beds

Do you shy away from wonderful plants like the mints, which include spearmint, monarda, lemon balm and catnip because the plants have a bad tendency to run everywhere? Well don't shy away from them anymore! simple place limits on their wandering with this simple raised bed. The herbs will be nicely contained and you can provide the growing environment that produces the best essential oil production. The below instructions are essentially the same as for the raised bed above, except directed at containing invasive roots. This bed is also rodent resistant.

Materials Needed:

• 1 - 2x10, twelve feet long. This should be pressure treated, heartwood cedar or cypress.

• 1 piece of landscape fabric 3 feet wide x 3 feet long

• 1 piece of aluminum screen wire 3 feet wide x 3 feet long

• 12 galvanized lag screws 3/8 inch diameter x 6 inches long

• 12 - 3/8 flat washers

• Galvanized, copper or stainless steel staples

Tools needed:

• Tape measure

• Square

• Saw (hand or electric)

• Electric drill

• 3/8 inch ratchet w/9/16 inch socket

• 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch drill bits

• Staple gun

• Oil (to oil screws before assembly)

Assembly:

• Measure board into 4 - 3 foot lengths and cut.
  Caution: If using a power saw use extreme caution and always were safety glasses and hearing protection. If using pressure treated lumber, always were a dust mask while cutting or sanding.

• On one end of each board measure back a distance equal to the thickness of the lumber and draw a line.

• Measure in approximately 1 1/2 inch from each side and centered in the area marked and mark for the two outside screws. Do the same for the center hole.

• Drill a 3/8 inch hole at each of your marks and then mark through this hole to the unmarked end of each board.

• Now drill a 1/4 inch hole through the marks on each end of the boards (three holes in each end that will line up with the side holes of the end of one of the boards)

• Now place a flat washer and some oil on each screw to be installed and place some oil into its corresponding hole and screw into the small hole until tight. [ The result will be a square frame where each board will have screws through the side of one end only and into the end grain of a corresponding board. Each corner will have one board overlapping the end of the next for a square frame ].

• With all four corners joined, measure from corner to corner and adjust until the two distances are equal (square).

• Take the piece of landscape fabric and staple along one side only. Then go to the opposite side of the frame, pull the fabric tight across the frame and staple this side. Do the same for the remaining two sides.

• Now repeat the process for the screen wire. the screen wire is needed to keep grubs, moles and other critters from chewing through and thereby allowing the roots to escape.

Now place the frame where it is to be used and mark around the frame. Set the frame aside and remove all vegetation from the area and place into your compost pile. If you plan on growing herbs like mints, thyme and other herbs that demand good drainage, it would be good to place a 1 or 2 inch layer of sand down at this time. Set the frame in place and fill with a planting mix appropriate to what you plan on growing.

(The one illustrated is 2 feet wide by 4 1/2 feet long. But uses the same construction methods described above.)

Soil Mixes For Raised Beds

**************

If you plan on growing herbs that require well drained soil that is dryer, mix one part garden soil with one part compost and two parts sharp sand. For plants requiring higher organic matter, try a mix of one part garden soil, one part compost, one part peat moss and one part sand. Plants that require higher fertility will do well with one part garden soil, two parts compost, one part peat moss and one part sand. When using garden soil that is high in clay or when better drainage is desired, try mixing one to two parts sharp sand into the mix.

Seeds and Seed Planting

Decrease Thinning Small Seeds

To make planting small seeds easier with less thinning and wasted seed mix tiny seeds with clean sand. I use approximately one cup of clean and sterilized sand (see note below) per measured amount of seed to be planted (up to one packet of seed). Mix thoroughly and sprinkle the entire cup of seed/sand mixture along the row to be planted or over the top of a large container. Cover seeds as needed with sifted sphagnum moss, sifted compost or sifted soil. The seed will germinate easily in the sand with less thinning and less wasted seed.

Note: If planting outdoors, sterilizing the sand is not necessary, as damping off is generally less of a threat than when planting indoors. However, it does increase the odds in your favor.

Sterilize Seed Planting Sand

To sterilize sand for covering seeds, rooting cuttings, etc., place the sand to be sterilized into a large piece of cotton or muslin fabric and tie shut. Place the sand into a clean plastic bucket and cover with a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 10 parts water for 15 minutes. Drain and spread out to dry thoroughly. After the sand has dried thoroughly, divide into approximately 1 cup portions for seed covering and larger portions for rooting cuttings. Store in clean zipper sandwich bags until needed.

Skin Care

Itchy Beard Skin

Of men who are outdoors a lot, beards are pretty much a standard for many (myself included) and let's face it, men are going to be last to give skin care a second thought, especially facial skin. Yet, I see a lot of beard scratching going on. In many cases, this may be nothing more than dry skin caused by the covering of the skin by a beard and in extreme cases can lead to "beard dandruff", which is generally nothing more than dry skin that is naturally sloughed off. Try this method to relieve dry, itchy beard skin:

1. Wash your beard and hair with a good quality shampoo. I use a fairly mild dandruff shampoo, but a general purpose shampoo will also work for many, and don't use the same shampoo every day for weeks on end. Switch between 2 or 3 different brands every 3 or 4 weeks.

2. Use a scalp brush to aggressively scour the scalp before, during and after lathering. If you can't find a scalp brush, use a hair brush with those little plastic tips on the end. This stimulates blood flow to the skin and hence increases moisture. This also helps with the reduction of DHT for those who are facing hair loss.

3. Rinse thoroughly, then wash your face, ears and neck before proceeding on. You'll see why later.

4. After rinsing, apply a liberal amount of skin conditioner to your beard (other hair optional), and let it sit while you bathe the rest of your body.

5. After bathing, thoroughly rinse your beard with "tepid" water. Hot water will strip to much of the oils out of the skin. This is why you wash your face first, then apply the conditioner and then your body. The added time allows more time for the conditioner to work.

6. Repeat daily for a nearly "itch-free" beard.

In extreme cases, or as an occasional boost, substitute the conditioner with baby oil. But, you will need to use "baby shampoo" to remove the oil. It may seem like "pampering" or "girly" to many of you macho men, but hey, no one else needs to know. You're in the privacy of your shower and besides - you're worth it!

Sprays and Spraying

Homemade Weed Killer

Apple Cider vinegar and salt are potent weed killers. But when combined at the rate of approximately one half pound of table salt to one quart of vinegar, this solution will kill all vegetation. Often for an entire season. It is environmentally safe, quite inexpensive to make and will keep indefinitely in plastic or glass containers. To make this handy weed killer, pour vinegar into a stainless steel, porcelain or glass pan and just bring to a slow boil. Heat the vinegar outside on a camp stove if possible to keep the smell out of the house (however vinegar is a proven odor destroyer if you you can stand the smell until you ventilate the house afterward). To the boiling vinegar, slowly add the salt stirring constantly, until the vinegar will accept no more. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. Pour into a plastic sprayer or other suitable plastic container and label the container. Use as needed but use caution to only get this solution on plants you want to kill because it is a total vegetation killer. Plants with large tap roots, such as dandelion, may need an additional application in 2 to 3 weeks. For added effectiveness, add a few drops of liquid dish soap to the solution.

Sprayer Agitator

Everyone who has done much spraying, whether chemicals our organic mixtures knows that the mix must remain mixed. But what a hassle to shake up that sprayer every few minutes. The next time you break out that pump-up sprayer, drop in a golf ball or two. Then simple shake it around while while you're walking. The solution stays mixed and you don't wear out your arms trying to keep everything stirred. Don't use a large, pump-up sprayer? No problem! Simply substitute four or five marbles for the golf balls. Just remember to rinse the "agitators" after each use and store them in a marked contained for the next time.

Recycled Spray Bottles

First question - How many spray bottles have you bought over the past few years? Second question - How much did you pay for those spray bottles? Last question - How many spray bottles have you thrown out in that same time period that were once used for household cleaners, etc.? If you're like most people, you've bought and used many products for your home and shop that came in spray bottles. Most folks simply throw the spray bottle away after the contents have been used up. Many of these spray bottles feature adjustable nozzles and nozzles that shut off to stop accidental spraying.

Most household chemicals are designed to be relatively safe and the bottles can easily be made safe by thorough rinsing. Some that may be of concern are ones which contained products containing petroleum distillates and potent chemicals like insecticides. These should be either used with extreme caution or discarded, as the chemicals may enter the plastic and can not be easily rinsed out. Check the label for possible warnings about reuse. When reusing these or any container that is being used with any product other than what was originally in the container, always label the container with its contents for safety.

Tools

Save Trips To The Shed And Multi-Task At The Same Time

Got a day filled with primarily one type of task? Consolidate tools, tote and transport without heavy lifting, all in one neat package. A large tote attached to a 2-wheeled dolly will transport your tools to the site and carry soil, compost, rocks and other heavy objects once you get there. Using a 2-wheeled dolly instead of a wheel barrel (where applicable) will keep you from having to lift heavy objects up and into a wheel barrel. If your task involves weeding, pruning or other light, but bulky work, substitute the tub for a trash can.

Keep Hand Tools Handy

Eliminate trips for common hand tools and supplies with a handy device called a "Bucket Buddy", "Bucket Apron" or several other names. These are available from just about any hardware store or home center. This is a simple apron that has multiple pockets and loops for a variety of tools and is draped around and into a five-gallon bucket. In one of these, a gardener (or anyone who works outside) can assemble all of the hand tools and supplies they will need for a day in one convenient location. When you get ready to go out and do battle in the yard or garden, simply toss your tool caddy in a cart along with a few long-handled tools and you're ready for just about any garden chore. Here's a list of the things I normally carry with me in my "Bucket Buddy":

• Trowels (three sizes)

• Hand Mattock (I use a combination of hoe and cultivating fork)

• Weeder (two styles)

• Old Screwdriver (for weeding and cleaning)

• Large Hammer (for pounding stakes, etc.)

• Hole Starter (made from a piece of concrete reinforcing bar)

• Pruner (I need to replace a couple)

• Loping Shears

• Folding Pruning Saw

• Hand Cultivator

• Bulb Setter (for planting and bulbs)

• Hatchet

• Flat File (for sharpening tools)

• Jute Twine in dispenser

• Knee Pads

• Grass Shears (for spot trimming)

• Marking Stakes

• Plant Labels

• Permanent Marker

• Insect Repellent

• Thermometer (for taking soil readings)

• Steel Brush (for cleaning tools)

• Stiff Scrub Brush (for general cleaning and soil removal)

• Putty Knife (cheep one for scraping tools)

• Scissors (two types)

• Tweezers (for weeding)

• Utility Knife

• Measuring Spoons

• Six Inch Rulers (2) (plastic flexible and stainless steel for measuring small things I'm interested in)

• 12 Foot Tape Measure

• 100 Foot Tape Measure

• Lay-Out String On Spool

• Lay-Out Stakes (for laying out new beds, rows, etc.)

• Tie Wire (for heavy plant tying applications)

• Safety Glasses (I use ones that will fit over prescription glasses. Goggles are preferred)

• Small Spray Bottle Of Bleach Solution (to sanitize pruners, etc.)

• Lubricating Oil (spray penetrant is handy for many uses)

• Garden Gloves (rubberized, latex, jersey and leather)

• Dust Masks (usually seasonal - normally only used for fall leaf clean-up)

• Pencil And Note Pad (for keeping notes on my garden)

All of these things are tools and supplies I use on a regular basis. Your needs might be different, so plan your tool tote accordingly and watch your trips to the tool shed diminish and don't be surprised if you get more done in a day outdoors. Don't need to be so well armed? Perhaps your needs aren't as great. Accomplish the same thing by using a compartmented caddy. These are common with the ladies for organizing cleaning supplies and are sold in most box stores, hardware stores and home centers. Often found in either the hardware section and sometimes in the cleaning isle.

The daily tools of the trade for the "Hillbilly Gardener"

Yes - It all fits inside the bucket!

An alternative to the "Bucket Buddy" for those who's needs aren't as ambitious is a compartmented tote.

Save Steps On Simple Repairs

Gardeners are always building or repairing something. Save steps back and forth to the house or garage by putting together a simple toolbox of the most commonly used tools to keep in the garden shed. Don't spend a fortune on tools either. Most, if not all of the tools you will ever need can be picked up at yard sales and flee markets for a fraction of new. Some of the most often used tools to have in your toolbox might be:

• Toolbox - Use whatever is handy and inexpensive, but if you have a choice, an 18 to 24 inch "satchel" type tool bag is an excellent choice.

• Claw Hammer

• "Speed Square", 12 inch framing square or combination square

• Bullet or torpedo level (these are generally 6 to 8 inches long and tapered to somewhat of a point on each end)

• 16 to 48 ounce hammer. This can be a ballpein, rock hammer or heavy mechanics hammer. Just make sure it is at least 16 ounces or more for driving stakes, etc.

• One each - 8 and 12 inch adjustable wrenches

• Combination wrenches (open end on one end and box end on other). 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 and 3/4 inch are the most often used. Depending on where you live and equipment you have, you may wish or need to add metric wrenches to your toolbox.Eight through nineteen millimeter will most often be used.

• 3/8 inch drive socket set.

• Assorted straight and cross-point (erroneously called a phillips) in different sizes.

• Wire cutters (8 or 10 inch are the best sizes for most work)

• Needle or Long-Nose pliers of 8 or 10 inch.

• Wire or mechanics pliers (8 or 10 inch). These are the common pliers that most people are familiar with.

• Pump pliers. These are often called "slip-joint pliers" or "tongue and groove pliers". Eight or ten inch are most widely used, but larger pairs are very handy as well.

• Pry Bars (at least 2 sizes). Twelve and twenty-four inch are the most popular.

• Utility Knife with replaceable blades. Make sure the blade is retractable for safety.

• One each - Putty Knives. 1 1/2 inch and 3 inch are the most popular.

• One each - 12 and 25 foot tape measures.

• Flashlight w/extra batteries or a rechargeable. I personally prefer a "head-lamp" with LED light for "hands-free" operation.

Depending on your own personal preferences, you may have more or less tools than these listed here, but these are the ones you will use most often. Due to the fact that these are to be used only occasionally and will be prone to  potentially facing the elements and possible loss, I would highly recommend that you not spend a lot of money on these. But you NEVER want to buy cheap tools. Cheap tools are those that are cheaply made and are designed (my opinion) to bust your knuckles and break.

Install Trellis And Other Poles Easier

Make inserting stakes and poles easier by making a couple of "pre-punches". Obtain a couple of lengths of concrete reinforcing rod about 24 inches long. Make one of them out of 1/2 inch rebar and one out of 3/4 inch rebar. Near one end of each bar, weld a 3 or four inch washer near the end to protect your hand from misses with the hammer and punch away. You can sharpen the opposite end if you like but it's not necessary. Use this "punch" to make starter holes to make inserting poles, stakes, etc. into the ground much easier. This punch will make inserting poles into rocky or hard ground a breeze. I even use mine to assist in putting up holiday decorations!

Keep Cords Plugged

Twine And Rope

Tame That Twine

Twine is used by virtually all gardeners for virtually everything. It has become an invaluable part of every gardeners tool box. We use it to tie up tomatoes, vines and straying flower stalks. Bags of fertilizer get tied by twine, tools hung by twine and roses trained by twine. A need arises and we trustingly reach into our bucket for our trusty twine. But this time, we reach into our bucket and pull out something more resembling the remnants of a discarded birds nest than a ball of twine. We poke, pull, twist and weave the tangled mess, cutting off short pieces at a time until out of frustration, we throw the whole mess away and look for another. Wouldn't it be nice if there was a way to have twine ready to use and tangle free at a moments notice any time we needed it. Well, the following dispenser may not be 100% foolproof all of the time, but it's pretty dare close. The following twine dispenser uses a 32oz Kraft Miracle Whip® plastic jar, which is sized for two of the rolls of twine I buy almost as if it had been designed for this purpose. Any wide-mouth jar that will fit two rolls of twine without letting them flop around much will probably work as well. I use predominately biodegradable jute twine (dyed green when I can find it) in the garden that can go directly into the compost.
 

After a thorough cleaning, start by drilling a 5/16 inch hole in the center of the lid. To make drilling without catching and possibly cracking the lid or injuring your hand, start out with a small drill bit and work your way up through several sizes until you reach 5/16 inch.	After unwrapping two balls of twine, locate both the inner and outer ends of the twine. Next, tie the inner end of one ball to the outer end of the second ball of twine using a square knot. This is one of two important steps in order to make the balls feed properly.	After pulling the knot tight, trim the ends no longer than 1/4 inch from the knot, but do not trim the excess next to the knot or it make come untied.	Now you're ready to load your twine into your dispenser. This is critical to making it work. Stack your balls of twine on top of each other so that the ball with the free end coming from the center is on top. This ball is placed on top of the second ball on the same side where the end is coming out of the center.
Envision it this way, as the twine is pulled from the center out of the first ball of twine. As it gets to the outside end of the first ball of twine, it will start pulling the twine from the inside out of the second ball. The string feeds inside out, inside out.	Next insert the free end of the twine (this will be coming from the center of the top ball of twine) through the hole in the lid.	The finished twine dispenser ready to go into my garden tool bucket.	The one thing I might add to this dispenser is a small spring clip to hold the string from being accidentally pulled out.   I'm also working on a way to add a belt clip. When finished, I'll pass these on to you.

Watering and Irrigation

End Soil Wash Out In Containers

Ever notice how, when you water your container plants, that soil always gets washed out and leaves a hole in the soil exposing the roots? Or perhaps, as you water your containers, material always gets dislodged and starts floating around sticking to everything? End washout and floaters with one of these tricks.

Keep Track of Soaker Hose Ends

Soaker Hoses are a staple for any gardener who wishes to keep their plants hydrated without wasting water. For best results, they should be buried under a thick layer of mulch, but finding the end when it's time to water can be a challenge if it's buried under mulch. Place a marker stake at each end of the hose before you lay down the mulch. and tie the ends to the stakes. Then it's a simple task to find the end to connect to and the other end to open up for flushing the hose.

Flush Soaker Hoses With Ease.

Every gardener who uses soaker hoses knows that they need to be flushed out before each use, but it's not the most convenient thing to locate the end and unscrew a cap in order to keep them flushed out. Make flushing the hose a breeze by installing an inexpensive hose valve (quarter turn ball valve) on the capped end of the hose (inexpensive plastic valves work great). Now when it's time to flush the hose simply open the valve for a few seconds and close - flush done and your hose stays clean inside and working properly.

Dam The Water

Ok, so you like the idea of confining the water to a single area and not letting it run all over the place, but don't want to tie up a hose long enough to properly soak a tree with a soaker hose. Here's a idea I've used many times that works very well:

1. After planting the tree or shrub and the initial watering, Remove all of the sod in an area:

   1. An area to the mature size of the drip line (this is the outermost tips of the branches) at maturity. This will be the area that you want to keep mulched. This is generally only done with shrubs and small specimen trees.

   2. Remove the sod out to roughly 2 to 3 feet from the trunk in a circle. This is generally done for larger trees or large shrubs.

2. Loosen the soil in this area down to 6 to 10 inches.

3. Using regular soil (not potting soil or compost), start building a ring or circular dam that is approximately 6 inches wide by 6 inches tall out at the edge of the area you just cleared the sod from.

   Tip: to keep your dam round and fairly even around the top:

   1. Cut a piece of string that is long enough to tie a large loop in one end around the trunk and extend to the outer edge of your dam.

   2. Tie one end around the trunk very loosely so it will slide around the trunk as you work your way around the tree.

   3. Measure the diameter of your dam (half the distance of the total circle) and subtract approximately 4 inches. Mark this measurement on your string with a permanent marker. E.g.: If your finished well is to be 4 feet across, half of that distance will be 2 feet. Subtract 4 inches from that to get the center of your dam, or 20 inches in this case. With the string tied very loosely around the trunk so it will slide and holding it stretched out, measure from the trunk out 20 inches and mark this measurement on the string.

   4. Now cut 20 to 30 wooden stakes approximately 10 to 12 inches long. I normally use piece of tree branch lying around that need to be disposed of anyway. These will become your depth indicators.

   5. Holding your string outstretched from the tree or shrub, place a stake into the ground at the mark you previously placed on the string and shove it into the ground until only 6 inches of it remain above the ground. This will become your depth indicator as you build your dam. You will build to the top of this stake.

   6. Continue measuring and placing stakes approximately every 18 inches or so around the tree or shrub until you have completed the circle.

   7. Leave these in place as you build your dam. They will quickly rot away.

   8. If you are meticulous and want to make your dam level around the top, you could place a 4 inch spacer at the tree (the root ball should be 2 inches higher than where the dam is being built) and run the string across it. Place a line level on the string and find the high side of your circle. This will be the 6 inch mark for your dam. Then working your way around the circle, install all of your stakes to this level. But this is only for those that wish a meticulous appearance to their work (but it does make it easier to control the water level inside later).

4. Compact this soil as you build and continue until the ring is completed all the way around the tree or shrub.

5. You could stop here and the dam will last approximately a season with care and an occasional repair to breaks. But if you want to repair it less and have it last 2 or 3 seasons or more, line the dam inside and out with pieces of landscaping fabric. Pieces approximately 12 inches long by 12 inches wide worked like shingles end up being the easiest to use. Do not use plastic or other non-breathable material because it will sour the soil beneath and become a hiding place for insects, slugs and rodents.

6. Lay your sheets starting on the outside so that they extend beyond the dam by approximately 2 inches into the yard and over the top of the dam. Let each sheet overlap the previous sheet by approximately 2 inches. You may need to insert a few fabric staples or weigh it down with a few stones until you're finished to keep it from blowing away.

7. After completing the outside of your dam, do the same for the inside of the dam.

8. After completing your dam cover inside and out, fill the dammed area with an organic mulch, being careful not to place the mulch next to the trunk. Try to hold the mulch back from the trunk 3 or 4 inches. cover the dam completely with mulch inside and out. Chipped wood, bark or pine straw work best for this because they do not decompose as quickly and thereby fill your well prematurely. But wheat, oat or barley straw also work. Do not use leaves or grass clippings for this mulch because they break down to quickly.

Water running over the dam is what will destroy the dam the quickest, so make and install a water depth indicator and place inside the well you just created to let you know how much water is in the well without running it over.

1. Cut a piece of PVC pipe approximately 10 inches long. One inch diameter or larger Pipe makes it easier to see. I personally prefer using 2 inch PVC because I can tell at a glance how much water is in the tube.

2. Measure an area approximately 5 inches long from one end. This will be the end that is "up".

3. Drill a series of holes along this end approximately 2 inches apart and 3/8 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Precision is not needed here. You are simply wanting to allow the water to enter the tube quickly.

4. Choose a location near the the dam you just installed and shovel the indicator tube into the ground to where only approximately 5 inches of the tube is exposed.

   Note: For this to work its best, you will need to find the lowest point on your dam and use this a the reference point to install your indicator tube. E.g.; If you measure around your dam with a level line and you find a point where the dam is only 5 inches high, you will need to install your indicator tube at that point and keep the top of the tube about 1 inch below the top of your dam.

5. Fill around your indicator tube with mulch fill your well with water. Watch the water rise in the tube and shut off the water when it nears the top of the tube.

The point of this is that water running over any dam is what will destroy it the quickest. When this happens, water runs out where we do not want it and thereby wastes water and creates a task of repairing the dam that we do not want. The purpose project of this is to provide an ample supply of water for our newly planted tree or shrub, eliminate wasted water and decrease work.

Weather

Read Rain Gauges With Ease

Do you have one of those rain gauges that has a float in it to let you know how much rain you received? You know how difficult it can be to read them from some distance and after a year or two, the float color fades, making it nearly impossible to read. The next time you're in the sporting goods store or in a store that has a sporting goods department, look for a package of 1/2 or 3/4 inch, weighted fishing floats in fluorescent colors. Place one of these into your rain gauge and never have trouble seeing the rain level again. The floats last for years and when it finally deteriorates, simply replace it with a new one. One package of floats will outlive your rain gauge.

Cricket Chirps to Temperature

To convert cricket chirps to degrees Fahrenheit, count number of chirps in 14 seconds then add 40 to get temperature.

Example: 30 chirps + 40 = 70° F

To convert cricket chirps to degrees Celsius, count number of chirps in 25 seconds, divide by 3, then add 4 to get temperature.

Example: 48 chirps /(divided by) 3 + 4 = 20° C